Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Angel's Landing
Select Route:
Days of No Future T 
Lowe Route 
Lucifer's Ladder T 
Mostly American 
Northeast Buttress T 
Prodigal Sun 
South East Butress T 
South of Heaven 

Lucifer's Ladder 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A3+

Type:  Trad, Aid, 8 pitches, 1200', Grade VI
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A3+ [details]
FA: Klaus Shock and Geoff Trump 1998
Page Views: 3,398
Submitted By: Nate Brown on Jan 7, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Perhaps the proudest aid route on the face. Hard off the deck, so thin you can't see the thing until you are on the route. Lots of beaking, lots of natural stretches of hooking, hard desert-alpine free climbing at the top. Another futuristic Klaus Route. Don't make this your first nailing route.


The route starts in the next crack lookers left of Angel Hair and goes plumb-line to the top.


Full Aid rack, extra beaks, two sets of all hooks, big huevos. Please note: the A3+ rating relates to fall/injury potential and not to the difficulty. Furthermore, in keeping with Zion tradition, A3+ here is likely to be more severe than routes of the grade on the Captain.

Comments on Lucifer's Ladder Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nate Brown
From: Wilson, Wy
Jan 7, 2010

I posted this route once before and erased it. A buddy (sounds like Jersey Dave) heckled me about it because it is not my route. Well, Klaus lives in AK and could give a shit about these things... Hell, he barely gave his routes names let alone topos (which he never drew). I feel it best to leave the topo out of this site in the style of Klaus.

Second ascent: Eric Draper and Brian Bird

Third Ascent: Nate Brown and John Selove

Fourth Ascent: Anyone???... Neither Klaus nor I will buy you beer, you won't become famous, chicks won't dig you any more than they already do...
By Nate Brown
From: Wilson, Wy
Jan 7, 2010

History Tidbits:

On the FA: Klaus dropped the nailinig rack and they tied all thier ropes, slings, aiders and tat together to get it back. They immediatly went back up and carried on.

On our ascent: John Selove rode a human-sized block out of the first pitch. Woah! We called the bivi ledge atop pitch 6 "Satan's Sundeck".

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!