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Red Wall
Routes Sorted
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Air France S 
Big Red Roof T 
Diagonal, The T 
Earwig T 
Fire Cracker S 
Fledgling T 
Hatchling S 
Hawk's Nest T 
La Sombra S 
Left Wing T 
Leisure Sport S 
LF variation S 
Lucid Fairyland S 
Molotov Cocktail S 
Narcolepsy Nightmare S 
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Red Wall T 
Spiderman T 
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Trunk Monkey T 

LF variation 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 524
Submitted By: George Perkins on Jan 25, 2008  with updates from Karl Kiser

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Fleafer piddling around on the 5.8

Description 

An easier way to the Lucid Fairyland anchors. Start as for Lucid Fairyland with bouldery moves and a few big pockets. At the 2nd bolt, go left passing a horizontal crack (an unsure 5.8 leader might want a big wired nut here). Two more bolts lead through a thin section (crux) to the anchor. This crux part is a little contrived, because you could escape to 4th class ledges to the left just before it and still get to the chains.

Edit: I'd guess this climb is now more likely improved, and made more independent, by continuing up a new extension La Sombra instead of moving back to the Lucid Fairyland anchor (but I haven't done it yet).

Location 

Start as for Lucid Fairyland (the 3rd route from the right on Red Wall). This climb is the left variation of that route.

Protection 

4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Optional: big stoppers.


Photos of LF variation Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lucid Fairyland variation
BETA PHOTO: Lucid Fairyland variation

Comments on LF variation Add Comment
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By Karl Kiser
Mar 13, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This climb was probably bolted the same time as Lucid Fairyland. No person knows the name and it should be considered a separate climb to the same anchor. It originally consisted of three bolts then left to easy climbing. Climbing right and over the fourth bolt is 5.9.

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