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Fleafer piddling around on the 5.8
An easier way to the Lucid Fairyland
anchors. Start as for Lucid Fairyland
with bouldery moves and a few big pockets. At the 2nd bolt, go left passing a horizontal crack (an unsure 5.8 leader might want a big wired nut here). Two more bolts lead through a thin section (crux) to the anchor. This crux part is a little contrived, because you could escape to 4th class ledges to the left just before it and still get to the chains.
Edit: I'd guess this climb is now more likely improved, and made more independent, by continuing up a new extension La Sombra
instead of moving back to the Lucid Fairyland anchor (but I haven't done it yet).
Start as for Lucid Fairyland (the 3rd route from the right on Red Wall). This climb is the left variation of that route.
4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Optional: big stoppers.
BETA PHOTO: Lucid Fairyland variation
By Karl Kiser
Mar 13, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
This climb was probably bolted the same time as Lucid Fairyland. No person knows the name and it should be considered a separate climb to the same anchor. It originally consisted of three bolts then left to easy climbing. Climbing right and over the fourth bolt is 5.9.