Lucid Dreaming 5.12d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.12+ [details] |
| FA: | Vaino Kodas , Bob D'Antonio and Mary Zuvela |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Ron Olsen on Nov 11, 2001 |
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Ridge dreaming of air well before the crux on LC@S...
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Description Just right of Rama on the Plotinus Wall is a beautiful, overhanging arete. This is Lucid Dreaming. Stick-clip the first bolt then power up a series of tricky, strenuous moves to a stopper move near the the fourth bolt. Crank up over the bulge and follow the steep face up to a two-bolt anchor. Classic and hard arete climbing on beautiful granite.
Protection Eight bolts to a two-bolt anchor.
BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, middle.
| BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, right side
| About to whip off the last hard move. Photo court...
| Nice climb.
| Tony Bubb in the crux section on 'Lucid Dreaming (...
| Tony Bubb on the steep arete after the crux sectio...
| Brett Merlin about to enter the crux
| It is obvious, but critical, where your right hand...
| Dan (Area Dan) moving through the crux on a beauti...
| Eyeing the crux move on Lucid Dreaming. Photo by: ...
| I don't think this is the best way for most people...
| Working the crux moves on Lucid.
| Local climber and BRC trainer Curt MacNeill doing ...
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| Comments on Lucid Dreaming |
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By Anonymous Coward Dec 17, 2002
| Awesome route! Probably the best 12c in Boulder Canyon. Steep climbing leads to a reachy V4 crux. I would recommend a stiff boot! Good job Bob. |
By Peter Beal From: Boulder Colorado Apr 11, 2003
| Pretty solid for 12c but definitely not 13a. However I have a feeling a few holds are going to break on this, especially the potato chip flake below the third bolt, in which case the rating will definitely jump. |
By Fred Knapp Jul 7, 2003
| I'm a weak Boulder climber and i have to say it felt like 12b/c to me. A very high quality route, nonetheless. |
By Bill Wright Jul 11, 2003
| Man, I wish I were as weak as you guys... |
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Jul 23, 2003 rating: 5.12
| Nice climb, nice moves: too bad I didn't link some of them...Speaking of the holds maybe breaking off, The hold on the arete from which to clip the first bolt is cracked back behind it and scares me a little. Check it out and consider stick-clipping bolt #1. |
By jonah Sep 30, 2003
| I'm bummed that I'm moving from Boulder, because I won't have routes like this in my backyard anymore. Not too bummed to get away from all the mindless downgrading ego games, though. Yuck. This route is hands down one of the most aesthetic in the canyon, with some of the most fun climbing anywhere. And it is bolted just right for some good clean air when you blow the crux before clipping the 4th bolt. Great job, Bob! |
By Joe Collins Dec 8, 2003 rating: 5.12d
| Awesome route. Hard to believe this line wasn't put up until recently. I found the hardest single move to be the long move from the jug at the 2nd bolt... this was a low percentage move for me. If you don't have a stick clip, you can clip the first bolt of Rama to remove the possibility of tumbling down to the creek. Not sure what to make of the downgrading going on here. I think people just like to give Bob a hard time. I've been able to finish 12c's at Boulder Canyon and Shelf really quickly of late, but this one will need a bit more work for me to link. |
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Dec 8, 2003 rating: 5.12
| I guess that just goes to show this route has a little something for everyone. I on-sighted to the 4th bolt and then hit a small hold up and left that spit me off 2 or 3 times. |
By Joe Collins Mar 17, 2004 rating: 5.12d
| Just to be a grade geek here... comparing to other BC routes, I found this one a good bit harder to send than Animal Instinct, Amazing Face, and Hands of Destiny. I don't have much experience with 13a, but I would expect that to be a much longer-term project. |
By Jim Redo Jun 1, 2005 rating: 5.12c
| A good 12c |
By Anonymous Coward Jun 9, 2005
| This route is very similar to No Doze at the Sport Park (style and difficulty) - 12c by Boulder Canyon standards, could be a 12b in other areas I have visited. Very bouldery, so I can see where some folks could get shut down, but V6 if you look at it that way. |
By Jim Collins Jun 23, 2005
| Rating--depends on height. Easier for taller people.Upper crux feels about like Hagan's Wall difficulty (V5), lower section feels about like Consideration difficulty (V4) -- so it is essentially a V4 with a good shake followed up by a V5. Which adds up to something in the range of 12d. |
By Jim Redo Jul 8, 2005 rating: 5.12c
| I felt the route was 12c, and I'm short. The [Flying Beast] at Easter [Rock] is much harder and that gets the slash grade of easy 13a. Although the routes are a bit different in angle [The Flying Beast] is two boulder problems separated by a not so good of a rest as Lucid. |
By Anonymous Coward Jul 12, 2005
| To further the case for downrating you can dyno past the first crux from a jug to the shaky flake (height-dependent but easy V0+ move for most people). To my belayer's dismay, this seemed like the most efficient idea, and after seeing him thrutch on the layback to get to the same hold, I figured he was doing it wrong anyway - he should spend more time bouldering and learning dynamic movement because this is nothing short of a giveaway to anyone who boulders. |
By Anonymous Coward Oct 18, 2005
| As reference, ac's bouldering scale is off by about a number grade (V8=13a), but you will find many more climbers capable of climbing a V8 boulder problem than a 13a. I believe George's 12b grade may be a little stiff (that is most likley the result of being a solid 13 climber). |
By Chris Briley Aug 8, 2006
| 13a for sure and a great one at that. |
By climberboy2 Nov 20, 2006
| I am new to this area of grade (hard 12) and recently did another Dream Canyon route...The Caterer 12c. I was wondering how you would rate The Caterer (because nobody posts any comments on it) and how it compares to a route like Lucid Dreaming. Any comments? |
By Curt MacNeill From: Boulder, CO Mar 23, 2011
| This route is incredible!! It took me a few worked sessions to get all the moves down and send it. This is powerful arete climbing at its best. Stick clip the first bolt or climb cautiously up to the first bolt. Big moves to fairly positive holds most of the way. There are 5 fixed draws on this route all the time to make clipping easier and so you can work the route. There is a stopper move up near the fourth bolt that is definitely a deal breaker on red point. Find the incut jug just after the crux and then finish on what I thought was 5.10 climbing to the top of the slab. Overall, a damn good route if you're climbing at the grade. Bring your camera as this climb is one of the most picturesque climbs and one of the best sport routes in Boulder Canyon. Enjoy. BTW, make sure you get on The Scientist and Boulder Quartz System which are its neighbors. All three are quality routes!!!!! |
By kiff Nov 23, 2011 rating: 5.12c
| I think that there is no way this is 13a, especially when compared to routes like Big Kahuna in Rumney, which is considered tough 12d/13a, there is no move on Lucid harder than the crux moves on BK. This should "settle" at 12c/d. |
By Tyler Fox Nov 8, 2012
| Finished this today and cleaned my draws, blue BDs. Moved the other 4 draws to the 1st 4 bolts. Just a heads up. |
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