Located on the (utah - wyoming) border this is a fun area with in Flaming Gorge. This is sandstone so be careful with your holds. Make sure your trad protection is solid. I didn't see any chains or bolts for miles while looking for a great route. Their is not much up top to set and anchor so come prepared with slings and gear. You can walk off any route in this area. Also their is alot of small cactus on your approach so watch out. Never seen any climber in this area. Looked in many books. This is prime for First assents.
The area is full of climbing potential. Most routes are on the north side of the road. Your approach is usually short. 5-10 minutes to the base of your route. From 1-80 take 530 south for an hour and a half until you are just north of Melina Utah. The valley will be on the east side of the road. Follow the signs to the Lucerne Marina. Stay on the main road for most routes.
Featured Route For Lucerne Valley
Death Wish 5.7 UT : Flaming Gorge : Lucerne Valley
The Crux is right in the middle of the climb. The best part of this climb is the start. Their are no foot holds at all. What you think is rock in the first 4 feet is really solid looking sand. You have to depend on the crack at first. The bad part is their was few holds that you cant trust but fun climb regardless. I would climb this again for sure!!!...[more] Browse More Classics in UT