Luau 5.12a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | Chris Smith, 1994 |
| Submitted By: | Ladd Raine on Apr 18, 2007 |
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Sam Todzia super excted to be in the sweet stem.
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Description Cool moves and Technical moves on a face make this climb very interesting. Finding and taking rests will make his climb easier...
Some of the upper moves can be spicy on a fall day when the sun comes out and your hands start getting mighty sweaty on the dark-colored hot final flake moves.
The crux of this route will hit you when you try to get off the ledge mid-way up, Hint: it involves an exciting deadpoint to a three finger pocket/crimp. It might seem like the lower bolt on the ledge is kinda silly but keep it clipped it really keeps the rope out of your way for the crux.
Unlike most of this cliff, this route rarely has draws in place. Too bad that it is wet most of the year. Very worthwhile when dry. Warm-up your hips and calves for this one!
Location Black streak in middle of Waimea. Very open right facing corner. Just left of Silver Surfer(5.12a) and Flying Hawaiian(5.11b)
Protection 7 Bolts to anchors.
Jay Knower "the administrator" making the crux mov...
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Ladd Raine trying to chalk and rest before the cru...
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Ladd Raine all setup for the crux move.
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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 9, 2007
| I just climbed Luau for the first time yesterday and loved it... it could be really hard if you dont use the right beta but once i figured it out it felt almost easy... my kind of route... |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 27, 2007
| keep at it ladd... i seem to remember some interesting foot beta i used for the last move... its still a throw but it sets you up well... good luck... |
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Aug 12, 2010
| Is this route pretty much just the moves after the second bolt up until the stem? Don't get me wrong, I don't mean to devalue them... but is the rest of the route 12a? or does it kind of drop off? |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 12, 2010
| The crux is down low for most but shorter climbers have trouble with the last move which many smaller folks dyno through...
i might call the bulk of the route 5.11 with those 2 harder moves thrown in... |
By S. Neoh
Aug 12, 2010
| I mostly agree with Lee.
When I TR'ed and led the route in '95 and '96 respectively, it had its original start intact (since fallen off) and was rated 11d. What has not changed, or at least that I am unaware of it, is the way for a short climber like me to do the last few moves statically. Some technical footwork is required but I would say the exit moves are no harder than 10d/11a even for shorties.
I hope to re-do my lead of this route now that it is a bit harder than BITD. Definitely a cool weather route, however. |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 13, 2010
| i think the reason ive see shortys dyno is cause they are tired by that point but i didnt mean to imply it was a manditory jump... foot work will always prevail :) |
By skinny legs and all
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jan 28, 2011
rating: 5.12a
| The roof crux had me climbing up and down to the ledge many times before dialing into that all out move. There was no chalk on any of the the climb. For the first time I felt like I was really onsighting a sport route. Super psyched. Cerebral upper section. |
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