Lower West Spoon Crack
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Good jugs on the wall next and a solid crack for g...
The obvious right-trending hand crack line up the wall. Scramble up a couple of ledges placing finger size gear before throwing yourself into the hand and off-hand crack. A wobbler block keyed into the crack about half way offers a jug hold. The crack widens as you get higher and a roof comes in from the left. Layback the roof while wishing it went on for longer and stop on the ledge. Metolius rap hanger two-bolt anchor is on the left. The anchor is hard to see from the ground but it is there.
Originally the anchor was on the right of the crack just below the roof because the final moves were pretty dirty. After it was cleaned the anchor was moved higher and left to include more fun climbing.
Because the route was climbed ground-up with no pre-cleaning it might still be a bit dirty and some stuff could pull off. Use your judgment and some caution and don't take holds for granted.
The obvious crack left of center on the wall.
A set of nuts and camalots from .3 to #4. Two bolt anchor with maroon metolius rap hangers for the anchor. Protection is really good on this route.
On the FA of Lower West Spoon, Oct. 24, 2008.
Bill below the roof after placing the confidence i...
|Comments on Lower West Spoon Crack
|By Daniel Trugman|
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
May 31, 2009
Cool route because it is kind of steep for a 5.8 crack, but there are some monster jugs. You won't regret taking a #4, but I suppose it isn't a requirement.