|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Jim Erickson, 1978|
|Submitted By:||Josh Janes on Feb 16, 2003|
|Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Lower Triagonal||Add Comment|
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By Josh Janes
Feb 16, 2003
|On second thought, perhaps "Xanthomorposis" gets it's difficulty rating when it's combined with "The Metamorphosis." Whatever - if you're climbing these climbs it's because you want to do "The Metamorphosis," "Scotch and Soda," or "Disguise," in which case Diffraction or King's X are much better approaches anyway.|
By Joe Huggins
From: Grand Junction
Feb 23, 2003
|Actually, the name is Lower Triagonal, which makes sense if you look at the feature.|
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 8, 2003
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
The route can be [begun] one [of] several ways, but the best I found is by a 5.10 start on sloping feet and with a side-pull to a fingerlock in a pod, near the center of the S. Face, directly below a small pine growing on the ledge 25' up. This is probably 5.10a, S. As well, one can finish where the diagonal crack "peters out" either directly up (5.9+) or continue left past a closed section of the crack, along the end and around the corner- there are nice locks out there as well and it protects just fine (5.9+ too). Take a few fist-sized pcs for the diagonal crack.
One star. Ho-hum climbing because it is broken up and largely indistinct.
Seemed like 5.9+ anyway (5.10 start also possible) and was awkward/committing move, though the gear was good.