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DescriptionThis is the lead climbing portion of the canyon. Excellent, steep basalt crack climbing. Most routes end at bolt anchors. DO NOT PLACE BOLTS IN THIS CANYON (See Sullivan's Canyon description for reasoning for this bolting restriction) Getting ThereAbout 5 miles north of Chino Valley and 1/2 mile south of Paulden look for a gas staion (not the one in Paulden) on the west side of the hwy. Across hwy 89 from this station is the north end of Old Highway 89. Turn east onto this road and look for a left turn (east) onto Sweet Valley Road (dirt). Follow this road for one mile and turn right onto an unnamed dirt road. At 2.1 miles keep left passing a gate and continue another .2 miles to a pullout/parking spot. Hike west from the parking area until the canyon comes into view, you will be on the north rim of the canyon. Look for cairns that mark portions of the trail and some of the descents into the canyon. Several drop in points are possible. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Sullivan's:
Sharp End 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Better Than Mecca 5.9 Trad, 30 feet
Mrs Whittaker 5.9 Trad, 50 feet
Virtuoso 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch
911 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Apple Pie 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Easy Option 5.10a Trad, 90 feet
Distant Vision 5.10- Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Potluck 5.10b Trad
Tight Wad 5.10b PG13 Trad, 50 feet
Wheeler Dealer 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet
Gemstone 5.10 Trad, 40 feet
Classic 5.10 Trad, 50 feet
Baby Please Dont Go 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Sword of Damocles 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Classified 5.11- Trad, 50 feet
Bohemian 5.11c Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Featured Route For Lower Sullivan's
Bohemian 5.11c AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Lower Sullivan's
Fun mixed route. Superb cranking if you can fight off the pump to reach the anchors....[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
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