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Lower Sullivan's
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
911 
Apple Pie 
Baby Please Dont Go 
Better Than Mecca 
Bohemian 
Cellulose 
Classic 
Classified 
Dancing Partner 
Dirty Dog Ditty 
Distant Vision 
Easy Option 
Finger Licking Good 
Free Wheel 
Freedom Falls 
Gemstone 
Jump Start 
Mrs Whittaker 
Neo-Classic 
Potluck 
Sharp End 
Sword of Damocles 
Tight Wad 
Virtuoso 
Wheeler Dealer 
Unsorted Routes:

Lower Sullivan's 


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Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: BCramer on May 6, 2007

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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BETA PHOTO: found this recently digging through old guidebooks...

Description 

This is the lead climbing portion of the canyon. Excellent, steep basalt crack climbing. Most routes end at bolt anchors. DO NOT PLACE BOLTS IN THIS CANYON (See Sullivan's Canyon description for reasoning for this bolting restriction)


Getting There 

About 5 miles north of Chino Valley and 1/2 mile south of Paulden look for a gas staion (not the one in Paulden) on the west side of the hwy. Across hwy 89 from this station is the north end of Old Highway 89. Turn east onto this road and look for a left turn (east) onto Sweet Valley Road (dirt). Follow this road for one mile and turn right onto an unnamed dirt road. At 2.1 miles keep left passing a gate and continue another .2 miles to a pullout/parking spot. Hike west from the parking area until the canyon comes into view, you will be on the north rim of the canyon. Look for cairns that mark portions of the trail and some of the descents into the canyon. Several drop in points are possible.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Sullivan's:
Sharp End   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Better Than Mecca   5.9     Trad, 30 feet   
Mrs Whittaker   5.9     Trad, 50 feet   
Virtuoso   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch   
911   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Apple Pie   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Easy Option   5.10a     Trad, 90 feet   
Distant Vision   5.10-     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Potluck   5.10b     Trad   
Tight Wad   5.10b PG13     Trad, 50 feet   
Wheeler Dealer   5.10     Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet   
Gemstone   5.10     Trad, 40 feet   
Classic   5.10     Trad, 50 feet   
Baby Please Dont Go   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
Sword of Damocles   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Classified   5.11-     Trad, 50 feet   
Bohemian   5.11c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Browse More Classics in Lower Sullivan's

Featured Route For Lower Sullivan's
Paul reaching for the first horizontal after the roof

Bohemian 5.11c  AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Lower Sullivan's
Fun mixed route. Superb cranking if you can fight off the pump to reach the anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ


Photos of Lower Sullivan's Slideshow Add Photo
lol these are the old 'bolting guidelines' for the cliff

BETA PHOTO: lol these are the old 'bolting guidelines' for the...

Anyone know the name of this one?  <br />Kait Boyle crushing.

Anyone know the name of this one?
Kait Boyle crus...