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Lower Sullivan's

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Bend and Big Boned Area, The 
Concrete Jungle 
Main Wall 
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Opera House, Hot Spot 
Timmie's East 

Lower Sullivan's  

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Location: 34.86312, -112.44732 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,879
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Gross on May 6, 2007


83° | 52°

85° | 51°
Columbus Day

87° | 52°

88° | 53°

88° | 53°
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BETA PHOTO: found this recently digging through old guidebooks...


This is the lead climbing portion of the canyon. Excellent, steep basalt crack climbing. Most routes end at bolt anchors. DO NOT PLACE BOLTS IN THIS CANYON (See Sullivan's Canyon description for reasoning for this bolting restriction)

Getting There 

About 5 miles north of Chino Valley and 1/2 mile south of Paulden look for a gas staion (not the one in Paulden) on the west side of the hwy. Across hwy 89 from this station is the north end of Old Highway 89. Turn east onto this road and look for a left turn (east) onto Sweet Valley Road (dirt). Follow this road for one mile and turn right onto an unnamed dirt road. At 2.1 miles keep left passing a gate and continue another .2 miles to a pullout/parking spot. Hike west from the parking area until the canyon comes into view, you will be on the north rim of the canyon. Look for cairns that mark portions of the trail and some of the descents into the canyon. Several drop in points are possible.

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.7 miles from here

52 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',21],['2 Stars',24],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Sullivan's:
Sharp End   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   The Nursery
Mrs Whittaker   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 50'   The Nursery
Better Than Mecca   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 30'   Opera House, Hot Spot
Easy Option   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 90'   Main Wall
Apple Pie   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Timmie's East
911   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   The Nursery
Distant Vision   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Concrete Jungle
Wheeler Dealer   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   Opera House, Hot Spot
Classic   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 50'   Opera House, Hot Spot
Sword of Damocles   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Opera House, Hot Spot
Bohemian   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Concrete Jungle
Browse More Classics in Lower Sullivan's

Featured Route For Lower Sullivan's
Stemming to the anchors. Photo by Jennifer Blazer

Easy Option 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Main Wall
Straight shot to the top -- roof crack to the inside corner, then stem through the twin cracks to the anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Local Information for Lower Sullivan's
Photos of Lower Sullivan's Slideshow Add Photo
lol these are the old 'bolting guidelines' for the...
BETA PHOTO: lol these are the old 'bolting guidelines' for the...
Anyone know the name of this one?  Kait Boyle crus...
Anyone know the name of this one? Kait Boyle crus...

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