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This is the lead climbing portion of the canyon. Excellent, steep basalt crack climbing. Most routes end at bolt anchors. DO NOT PLACE BOLTS IN THIS CANYON (See Sullivan's Canyon description for reasoning for this bolting restriction)
About 5 miles north of Chino Valley and 1/2 mile south of Paulden look for a gas staion (not the one in Paulden) on the west side of the hwy. Across hwy 89 from this station is the north end of Old Highway 89. Turn east onto this road and look for a left turn (east) onto Sweet Valley Road (dirt). Follow this road for one mile and turn right onto an unnamed dirt road. At 2.1 miles keep left passing a gate and continue another .2 miles to a pullout/parking spot. Hike west from the parking area until the canyon comes into view, you will be on the north rim of the canyon. Look for cairns that mark portions of the trail and some of the descents into the canyon. Several drop in points are possible.
25 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Lower Sullivan's
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Sullivan's:
Sharp End 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Better Than Mecca 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 30'
Mrs Whittaker 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 50'
911 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Virtuoso 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch
Apple Pie 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Easy Option 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 90'
Distant Vision 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Tight Wad 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13 Trad, 50'
Potluck 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad
Classic 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 50'
Gemstone 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 40'
Wheeler Dealer 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Baby Please Dont Go 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Finger Licking Good 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Dancing Partner 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Trad
Sword of Damocles 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Classified 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Trad, 50'
Bohemian 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
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