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Lower Sullivan's

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Bend and Big Boned Area, The 
Concrete Jungle 
Main Wall 
Nursery, The 
Opera House, Hot Spot 
Timmie's East 

Lower Sullivan's Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 34.86312, -112.44732 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,780
Administrators: Greg Opland, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Gross on May 6, 2007

98° | 69°

93° | 67°

88° | 68°

88° | 67°

86° | 67°

86° | 66°
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Anyone know the name of this one? Kait Boyle crus...


This is the lead climbing portion of the canyon. Excellent, steep basalt crack climbing. Most routes end at bolt anchors. DO NOT PLACE BOLTS IN THIS CANYON (See Sullivan's Canyon description for reasoning for this bolting restriction)

Getting There 

About 5 miles north of Chino Valley and 1/2 mile south of Paulden look for a gas staion (not the one in Paulden) on the west side of the hwy. Across hwy 89 from this station is the north end of Old Highway 89. Turn east onto this road and look for a left turn (east) onto Sweet Valley Road (dirt). Follow this road for one mile and turn right onto an unnamed dirt road. At 2.1 miles keep left passing a gate and continue another .2 miles to a pullout/parking spot. Hike west from the parking area until the canyon comes into view, you will be on the north rim of the canyon. Look for cairns that mark portions of the trail and some of the descents into the canyon. Several drop in points are possible.

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.7 miles from here

53 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',24],['2 Stars',24],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lower Sullivan's

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lower Sullivan's:
Leaving the cradle   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   The Nursery
Sharp End   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   The Nursery
Slipstream   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   Concrete Jungle
Better Than Mecca   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 30'   Opera House, Hot Spot
Mrs Whittaker   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 50'   The Nursery
Apple Pie   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Timmie's East
Easy Option   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 90'   Main Wall
911   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   The Nursery
Distant Vision   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Concrete Jungle
Post Classic   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Opera House, Hot Spot
Disco Inferno   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 70'   Concrete Jungle
Wheeler Dealer   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   Opera House, Hot Spot
Classic   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 50'   Opera House, Hot Spot
Sword of Damocles   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Opera House, Hot Spot
Bohemian   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Concrete Jungle
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lower Sullivan's

Featured Route For Lower Sullivan's
Rock Climbing Photo: Neil jamming his way through the Sword

Sword of Damocles 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Opera House, Hot Spot
climb the crack on the right side of the perch to a small ledge where the infamous "sword" once stood, then up an off-hands crack. passable pockets and edges can be found hidden in the recesses of the crack....[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Photos of Lower Sullivan's Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Driving map for Lower Sullivan Canyon
BETA PHOTO: Driving map for Lower Sullivan Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Sword of Damocles, a must for the off-width sato-m...
Sword of Damocles, a must for the off-width sato-m...
Rock Climbing Photo: Austin Kessler on Disco Inferno
Austin Kessler on Disco Inferno
Rock Climbing Photo: Disco Inferno 5.10b/c
Disco Inferno 5.10b/c
Rock Climbing Photo: found this recently digging through old guidebooks...
BETA PHOTO: found this recently digging through old guidebooks...
Rock Climbing Photo: lol these are the old 'bolting guidelines' for the...
BETA PHOTO: lol these are the old 'bolting guidelines' for the...

Comments on Lower Sullivan's Add Comment
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By Mike A. Lewis
From: Estes Park, CO
Nov 11, 2015
Here are better directions to Lower Sullivan's: Follow Josh's directions - turn left on Sweet Valley Rd. Set your odometer here to "0". Drive one mile. Turn right onto an unnamed dirt road. At 1.7 miles, just after passing a gate on the right, there is a fork. Take the right fork. At 1.9 miles, park in the small parking area.

Go west and downhill directly out of the parking lot toward the small north-south gully below and you will hopefully see the trail that continues west across the gully and along the rim. Follow this good, obvious trail along the rim for 10 minutes (about .4 miles) to the "Concrete Gully." The trail naturally takes you off the rim into the gully, across the gully, and back into the gully. Downclimb the gully (2nd-3rd class) for 50' or so. The crags are left and right of the bottom of the gully.

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