Lower Solitude Rock Climbing
David moving toward the crux on Blow.
The Lower Solitude Wall features mostly well-bolted, dacite sport routes with a few cracks and some scattered bouldering. This lower cliff band faces Northwest and can be seen from HWY 180 at Shultz Pass Rd. It's a beautiful, secluded, shady and wind protected area with a twenty-five minute approach. Conditions are best from late spring to late fall. Fall days are best for attempting the harder routes, but summer mornings are still good. The single pitch routes are vertical and technical, from 35 to 70 feet long, and all are equipped with anchors. Most routes are 5.11 or 5.12 and have a reputation for being harder than they really are, as the cruxes are bouldery, and the moves often depend on minuscule foot jibs.
The short, compact nature of routes like Modest Mouse(12c), Immodest Monkey(13a), and Derelicte(12b) may deter some climbers who favor the height and exposure of Higher Solitude, but what they lack in length is made up for in bomber rock that gets right to the point, much like the Energizer Wall at the Pit. These hard, short routes of Lower Solitude are comparable in length to the crux sections of Main Wall routes at Higher Solitude.
There are a couple good trad climbs also. Snake Run(12a), put up around 2000, is still unrepeated. Good boulder problems such as Slackline(v3+ slab), BTBP(v7), Brick Toss(stout v4), and Hot Coffee(v5) can be found along the base of the wall and scattered within the gully below and above.
Park at the end of Paradise Road, the same parking for Gloria's Rocks. Hike past Gloria's to the Northwest. Just west of the Bill Boulder, you'll find a trail that skirts the steep, rocky edge of the mountain. Avoid trails that fork left to the Oldham Trail. Stay on the trail that skirts the edge of the mountain until it curves northeastward up into the first gully or canyon. The cliff will soon appear on the north-facing side of the canyon. 25 minutes.
Climbing Season For the Solitude Canyon area.
Weather station 5.0 miles from here
32 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Lower Solitude
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lower Solitude
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lower Solitude :
Blow 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Featured Route For Lower Solitude
Free Radical 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c AZ
: Northern Arizona
: ... : Lower Solitude
Free Radical shares the start of Pharside, then traverses left after the 2nd bolt and climbs an arc through the beautiful, colorful face, then finishes with an amazing crux at a thin black water streak. This is one of the best and most beautiful routes at Solitude. Lots of varied climbing on good rock and holds, with a four star crux guarding the chains. A good variation to Free Radical avoids the final crux by continuing the arc all the way back into the finishing arete of Pharside - Barracuda ...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
BETA PHOTO: Lower Solitude as seen from the trail to Higher So...
BK getting sandbagged by Colin at Solitude
Improved topo of Lower Solitude Wall.
John on Free Radical. Rick Flare is to his left an...
From: Chino Valley, AZ
Jul 17, 2016
I did some FA's here in the 80's with Dan Dingle. I'm not sure which of the new routes they might be but one of them had some home made stainless steel bolt hangars. Did anybody notice those?
By Colin Cox
Aug 5, 2016
Absolutely. In 98' or 99'we found your line on the upper portion of the wall. It's the first climb I did at Solitude and I thought it was awesome! As I climbed past the second and third shallow peg with home made hangers, I wiggled them in their rotten holes. Scared me pretty good! I decided to replace the old "bolts" with bomber stuff. I always referred to it as the Original Route and logged it in here under that name. Almost ten years ago I added a lowering anchor and a couple bolts to the upper gnarbly crack. It's a sport climb now. I do hope that is okay with you? Great route that should get climbed more! Nice work!