Lower Solitude Canyon Rock Climbing
David moving toward the crux on Blow.
The Lower Solitude Wall features mostly well-bolted, dacite sport routes with a few cracks and some scattered bouldering. This lower cliff band faces Northwest and can be seen from HWY 180 at Shultz Pass Rd. It's a beautiful, secluded, shady and wind protected area with a twenty-five minute approach. Conditions are best from late spring to late fall. Fall days are best for attempting the harder routes, but summer mornings are still good. The single pitch routes are vertical and technical, from 35 to 70 feet long, and all are equipped with anchors. Most routes are 5.11 or 5.12 and have a reputation for being harder than they really are, as the cruxes are bouldery, and the moves often depend on minuscule foot jibs.
The short, compact nature of routes like Modest Mouse(12c), Immodest Monkey(13a), and Derelicte(12b) may deter some climbers who favor the height and exposure of Higher Solitude, but what they lack in length is made up for in bomber rock that gets right to the point, much like the Energizer Wall at the Pit. These hard, short routes of Lower Solitude are comparable in length to the crux sections of Main Wall routes at Higher Solitude.
There are a couple good trad climbs also. Snake Run(12a), put up around 2000, is still unrepeated. Good boulder problems such as Slackline(v3+ slab), BTBP(v7), Brick Toss(stout v4), and Hot Coffee(v5) can be found along the base of the wall and scattered within the gully below and above.
Park at the end of Paradise Road, the same parking for Gloria's Rocks. Hike past Gloria's to the Northwest. Just west of the Bill Boulder, you'll find a trail that skirts the steep, rocky edge of the mountain. Avoid trails that fork left to the Oldham Trail. Stay on the trail that skirts the edge of the mountain until it curves northeastward up into the first gully or canyon. The cliff will soon appear on the north-facing side of the canyon. 25 minutes.
Weather station 5.0 miles from here
30 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Lower Solitude Canyon
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lower Solitude Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lower Solitude Canyon:
Blow 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Featured Route For Lower Solitude Canyon
BETA PHOTO: Lower Solitude as seen from the trail to Higher So...
BK getting sandbagged by Colin at Solitude
Improved topo of Lower Solitude Wall.
John on Free Radical. Rick Flare is to his left an...