Lower Slot and Upper Slot
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BETA PHOTO: Lower and Upper Slot are the right side OW crack s...
And now, the final exam to Intro to Wide Cracks 101. After Easy Jam, Baldwins Chimney, Right Parallel Space, Piton Perch, Slit, Handjacker, and Candlestick it is now time to do one of the area classics of the grade, the Slots.
Beware of any climb at Vedauwoo named Slot (here are 2). These were (and still are) sandbags for the grade, but the confidence gained of experience will work in your favor. Body position, proper and rhythmical movement, foot and leg position, and confidence will all serve you well here.
From the parking lot head left around the crag. Just left and around the corner from the Stand and Deliver Boulder are a series of overhanging wide cracks. Lower Slot takes...the lower one, and leads to a classic, leaning OW (Upper Slot). What else can I say at this point but: Go For IT.
|Photos of Lower Slot and Upper Slot Slideshow
Mark Sellers starting the lead.
Mark Sellers loosing his hand in the crack.
Not much feet on this one.
Photo: Dave Fiorucci.
Mark Sellers climbing.
Photo: Dave Fiorucci
Me nearing the crux on Lower Slot (Left Variation)...
Unknown climber on Upper Slot.
|Comments on Lower Slot and Upper Slot
|By Andrew Gram|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 31, 2001
Steve, this list is fantastic. I'll be hitting the whole course on my next trip to Vedauwoo. Thanks.
|By Darin Lang|
Aug 31, 2001
My thanks also, Steve. What more can you ask for than Cliff's Notes for OW 101? It almost feels like cheating.
|By Michael Kullman|
Oct 20, 2003
I guess I cheated on my final exam - instead of taking Lower Slot I did the variation (Lower Slot Left) which I thought was pretty cool. BTW - the Kopishka guide book lists both Lower and Upper Slot as 5.6. Regardless of the rating this is definitely a nice line.
From: Golden, CO
Oct 20, 2003
This was a sweet climb. Not to spray, but I don't think it was sandbagged at all. 5.6-5.7 (IF you have the technique dialed).
Only a short section of offwidth for my size body (mostly fist jams). There is a nice sidepull to the left to help you through the early offwidth section on the second pitch.
Once these are mastered, don't forget Middle Parrallel Space and Fantasia to bump it up a notch.
|By Chad Stebbins|
Oct 20, 2003
My first climb at Vedauwoo was combining A little on the Ugly Side with Upper Slot. On upper slot, I did a variation on the face to the right of the crack to get past the crux. Why did I mention this, Petro is probably correct, but for someone inept at offwidths, 5.10 friction face climbing is apparently easier.
|By Lizette Pena|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 20, 2006
Upper Slot - All I can say is heel toe, heel toe. And pray that you don't have a small foot like mine that your heel toe options will soon disappear as the slot widens. Watch those knees. Ouch...
|By colin tuck|
Sep 5, 2008
Owwwch! Fun climb, I love knowing how much I suck.
From: Boise, ID
Jul 27, 2009
These were my favorite climbs from the 3 days (which was not nearly enough!) that we spent in Vedauwoo. The book we had listed Lower Slot at 5.8- and Upper Slot at 5.7+. The crux in the middle of the Lower Slot, which involved getting established in the crack after it jogs to the left, was certainly perplexing, and I'm still replaying the moves in my dreams :). The upper slot was sustained and fun, with great heel-toes. It felt easier than Mother #1 (Which I climbed on day 1), although by the time I climbed this one I'd been stuffing myself up fat cracks for 3 days and my technique may have improved a little.
|By Brian Scoggins|
From: Eugene, OR
Jun 3, 2011
The second pitch can be done independently (the walk-off for Slit takes you right past the top of the Lower Slots, beginning of the upper slots) and is a pretty good 5.6 offwidth pitch in its own right. I still haven't found the 5.7 sequence for my body size on the first pitch though.