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Lower Right Ski Track 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Al Ruiz and Rich Wolfe 1966, FFA: John Long 9/72
Page Views: 4,980
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 15, 2001
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Lisa Pritchett leading Lower Right Ski Track

Description 

This description is only for Lower Right Ski Track. Upper Right Ski Track is listed independently on this site due to the frequency with which people traverse on to it and skip Lower Right Ski Track.

On intersection Rock, there are three main cracks running diagonally up and left from the base. These are visible from the North side (from the Hidden Valley Campground) and are called, from right to left, Right Ski Track, Left Ski Track, and Half Track. These are plainly visible in the photograph below.

Lower Right Ski Track is the Right-most of the three climbs, and starts as a left-leaning, left-facing dihedral. The crux comes about 20 or 25' from the ground at a bolt just below a bulge. Climb up the crack for a few easy moves and head upward and left. Clipping the bolt can be done from well below and right, and thus you will be well protected for a bit of time. The crux comes after you climb some short distance above the bolt, so a fall could produce a real lead-fall, not just a hang. This may potentially come complete with a considerable swing depending on what position you are in and how alert your belayer is, but severe injury seems unlikely.

After passing the crux, you will likely be standing in a stem at the bottom of a bulge. I was able to place a Camalot (#3, I believe) up into a pod in the dihedral prior to making one more hard move. This is an awkward stance to place from, but the choice is yours.

From there, continue up well protected and more moderate climbing to a small ledge that comes in from the right. Belay on this ledge (good gear up and left in the crack) and then walk off to the west, or continue up Upper Right Ski Track (5.5) to the summit.


Protection 

The route is reasonably protected, but not so well that you can hang-dog the route. The crux is protected by a bolt and a few additional hard moves (when you are pumped)protect on hand-sized cams. All in all, take a single set of nuts, and a set of Camalots. A large piece (#4 cam or #10 hex) might be useful at the belay or if you intend to continue on Upper Right Ski Track.



Photos of Lower Right Ski Track Slideshow Add Photo
Just starting the route.
Just starting the route.
Intersection Rock - West Face
BETA PHOTO: Intersection Rock - West Face
Intersection Rock - North Face
BETA PHOTO: Intersection Rock - North Face
Mike Fogarty Solo Right Ski Track 1984
Mike Fogarty Solo Right Ski Track 1984
Ryan seconds Lower Right Ski Track, just past the solitary bolt.  Nice socks!
Ryan seconds Lower Right Ski Track, just past the ...
Another picture showing the entire route.  The top-out is nice and spicy.
Another picture showing the entire route. The top...
David cruising Lower Right Ski Track.  Sat 23 Oct 2010.
David cruising Lower Right Ski Track. Sat 23 Oct ...
climbing those cool huecos at the bottom
climbing those cool huecos at the bottom
Working through the crux.
Working through the crux.
soooo fun
soooo fun
Here's a good view of the lower cruxy section
BETA PHOTO: Here's a good view of the lower cruxy section
Comments on Lower Right Ski Track Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 3, 2012
By Joe Collins
Jun 27, 2002

Cool climb, maybe 3 stars and easily linked with the Upper ski track with a 60m rope. Pretty tough moves above the bolt...I'm more apt to go with a solid-10c grade, at least compared to other classics of the grade at J-Tree such as Clean and Jerk, Bearded Cabbage (if you're 6' tall), and Rubicon.

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 11, 2004

Above the bolt, you will find a pocket for your right hand....this pocket is really deep. Then reach out with your left hand and grab a hold that is hidden deep with your outstretched left hand. You'll know when you grab the correct hold. Pretty easy climb, just one little crux and the rest is a cakewalk.

Keep a tight belay at the crux, there is potential for ground fall if you're not paying attention. The bolt is solid, just make sure your belay is too.

By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Dec 30, 2005

I don't see any reason to inflate the grade. Could be that if you try to place pro in the crux sequence it feels harder?

Side note: I'm glad I didn't read this before giving the route a go - way too much beta, ac!

Very good route, fun moves at the crux, exciting but not terrifying if you're pushing yourself. And definitely optimum to top out in one pitch.

By Graham Roff
Apr 17, 2006

Placing gear after the bolt and before the ledge would be an impressive feat - better to just pull through the couple of burly moves to safety. Past the ledge the climbing remains interesting, and pulling over the final overhang is fun. Definitely a route worth doing.

As a side note, the guidebook does list the crux move as being 5.10c.

By Edward Jenner
Nov 1, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I thought this was way, way easier then clean and jerk - a couple of moves on good solid holds comapred to something much more continuous and with harder moves.

I think Joe was having an 'off' moment.

EDIT: That exit shown in the picture titled 'sooo fun' was fantastic, airy and just made me smile. Soooooo gooood.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 6, 2008

There is a good #4 cam placement in a hueco above the bolt to better protect the crux.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Dec 7, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Bolt has seen better days, but you can put a hand sized cam above it before pulling hte crux.

By vanishing spy
Feb 23, 2009

The climb can easily be done bottom to top in 1 long pitch. The Bolt protects the crux move well, and you can even get gear in as well. I got a #2 (or was it a #3) in before getting on top of the ledge, but at great effort. It would be easier to just pull through the move and get on the ledge. The climb is in the shade from mid-morning and very cold on winter days.

By RTM
Jul 30, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I found it pretty casual to skip the bolt altogether and go all natural. They prolly didn't have cams though when they placed that bugger.

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Oct 21, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

A #4 in the hueco? That's a perfect knee bar! Just clip the bolt and climb up to the ledge. The bolt will protect the crux where you would most likely fall. Above that point, a cool head will make falling neigh on impossible because the climbing becomes juggy and simplistic. Fiddling with gear above the bolt is just a good way to end up increase your odds of hanging on the gear.

By Nathan Marsh
From: st. george utah
Dec 3, 2012

Over thanksgiving weekend i sat here and watched some chick try to climb this for about 40 minutes while a crowd of people watched(some i think wanting to climb it). She didn't even reach the bolt. Got bored went over to echo, climbed two routes came back an hour plus later and she is in the exact same spot, still on the route. blew my mind! Guess it wasnt meant for me to climb... or anyone else for that matter.