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 ADVANCED
The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alcove Cracks T 
AP Treat T 
Beast 666 T 
Broken Bones (aka Piledriver) S 
Browns Fist T 
Cerebrus T 
Effigy T 
Energy Crisis T 
Lower Refuse T 
Maid in the Shade T 
On Crack T 
Reincarnation (aid), aka 0.6 (free) T 
Welton's Corner  T 
Whack-A-Mole T 
Wild T 
Wildabeast T 
Unsorted Routes:

Lower Refuse 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: J Turner and R Wilmot, may 1960
Page Views: 1,037
Submitted By: lee hansche on Aug 23, 2007

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Description 

So you want to climb off-widths huh? Well here is a start anyway. There are 2 OW sections on this climb. Neither is very difficult, but both give you a look down that very long tunnel leading to hard off-width climbing. Just a look...

Pitch 1: (5.7) You start just right of Brown's Fist and climb up and right around the corner into a chimney with a bunch of jam cracks of different sizes and shapes in it. I found this section to be really fun. At a good stance the climbing changes to a short 5.7 off-width. Work your way up this to a ledge with a thread anchor.

Pitch 2: Climb the intimidating wide crack above. Though it looks like an off-width, no true off-width technique is needed. Grunt your way through and up on to the tree ledge at the base of the Book of Solemnity (5.10a).

There used to be a tree that could be climbed to get around the crux of pitch two, but all good things must come to an end. Now you are forced to climb the rocks.

Location 

To the right of Browns Fist and left of the Beast Alcove.

Protection 

Regular rack, and a few big cams if you are dying to put some scratches on them. I didn't use any and didn't miss them.


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