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 ADVANCED
Second Grotto Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back Scratcher Start T 
Lower Plaque Nose T 
Necronomicom Direct T 
on ramp, The T 
Plaque Right T 

Lower Plaque Nose 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 347
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Jul 6, 2008

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Lower Plaque Nose: Luke moving right to the gully ...

Description 

This is the most obvious approach to the Plaque face. Start at the base of the nose, then step right and immediately confront the crux--several difficult and treacherous moves on slopers and rounded grooves. Definitely back up the pin with a small cam in the vertical just to the right. You can also get gear in the horizontal below. A few moves higher move right to the gully, then back left to an overhang on the left side of the nose. A bolt and small cam protects the layback moves over the hang. Easier climbing leads to a large tree. Belay at the tree, or continue up and right to the ledge at the base of the Plaque. There are bolts and rings at the center of the Plaque to rap or, highly recommended, continue up and right and set a trad belay to continue on Plaque Right.


Location 

This is the nose of the buttress below the Plaque face of Second Grotto Wall. It's the lowest point of Second Grotto Wall. Hike up left past Lower Grotto Wall and diagonal across the talus following occasional cairns.


Protection 

One dubious pin at the crux, small to hand-sized cams.



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