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Lower Peanuts
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Guitar 
Aspenleaf Dihedral 
Black Pearl 
Blows Against the Empire 
Chaucer 
Cornered, straight up variation 
Dihedral 
Do or Do Not 
Double Cracks 
Easy Off 
Empire Strikes Back, The 
Faith, Hope and Charity 
Fickle Finger of Eight 
Forbidden Planet 
Home Free 
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) 
Just Another Girl's Climb 
Let's Jet 
Narrow Gate, The 
No Visible Means of Support 
Nova 
Off The Cuff 
Peanuts 
Pretender, The 
Sacred and the Profane, The 
Scorpions 
Shield, The 
Sickle 
Star Track 
Star Wars 
Strolling 
Tracer 
Trouble And Strife 
Whiskey Gala 
Wired 
X-Wing 
Young, Blonde, and Easy 
Your Basic Lieback 

Lower Peanuts 


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Elevation: 6,400'
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 18, 2006

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri
Chance of a Thunderstorm
59° | 41°
Partly Cloudy
68° | 39°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
73° | 41°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
77° | 46°
Partly Cloudy
86° | 46°

Topo for Lower Peanuts.

Photo by Myke Komarnitsky...


Description 

There are two smaller, N facing crags that make up the Peanuts Walls - Upper and Lower. This division covers the Lower Peanuts Wall for organizational purposes. Here you will find routes from 1-3 pitches in length. No route here is exceptionally easy nor difficult. This crag has an advantage of shade in the summer heat. Here, you may feel the feeling of being up with the birds while still close to the ground. Also, there are benefits of some element of isolation with excellent views of the entire northern half of Eldorado Canyon, in particular Redgarden Wall and the West Ridge.

While no climb here is likely to be top twenty in Eldorado Canyon, you can find delightful terrain for traditional-oriented, moderate climber. Some of the gems here include: Your Basic Lieback, 5.6; Star Wars, 5.8; the namesake route, Peanuts (opened by the amazing Layton Kor & Charles Roskosz in 1961), 5.9; Blows Against the Empire, 5.11a; Forbidden Planet, 5.11 a/b; Home Free, 5.11b, & Just Another Girl's Climb, 5.12a/b s.

The left side of the crag is likely the terrain for the seekers of the obscure or runout. Few climbers travel this side of the crag.

Note there is still some loose rock here in places. Caution and helmets may be advisable. Ken Black, on the first free ascent of The Shield, fell to his death after pulling a large block off and chopping his rope.

Descents involve either rappelling or walkoff/scramble off to the climber's right.

Note, this is not a child nor dog friendly area.


Getting There 

There are several ways of approaching the wall. The easiest access is achieved by parking at the western end of the park, possibly at the Rattlesnake Gulch trailhead (about 150m West of the Milton Boulder). Then, head east on this nearly-flat, Fowler Trail probably 1/4 mile until you are below these two crags. Ascend a non-erosive path up the talus field with some boulder hopping to Lower Peanuts.

The other way of getting here is to hike up the Bastille Trail then head West until you're below the talus field.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Peanuts:
Your Basic Lieback   5.6     Trad, 1 pitch   
Dihedral   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch   
Star Wars   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches   
Cornered, straight up variation   5.9     Trad   
Peanuts   5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch   
Wired   5.9+ PG13     Trad, 1 pitch   
Blows Against the Empire   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Home Free   5.11b     Trad   
Forbidden Planet   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Scorpions   5.11b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
Just Another Girl's Climb   5.12a     Trad, Sport   
The Sacred and the Profane   5.13- R     Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet   
Black Pearl   5.13     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Browse More Classics in Lower Peanuts

Featured Route For Lower Peanuts
Christa Cline starting the crux section of Star Wars.  Sustained jamming for the next ten feet leads to a small ledge on the right where the leader can shake out and rest.

Star Wars 5.8  CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Lower Peanuts
EXCELLENT 2 pitch or one long pitch up the beautiful Lower Peanuts wall. Scramble to the far right and up onto the first ledge (lots of loose talus...be careful). Find a large, obtuse corner just below a perfect handcrack in a steep left-facing dihedral (many obtuse corners so make sure you see the obvious handcrack above, some of these other corners have scary pro and are much harder).P1. Climb the corner with variable crack and fingers at top to large loose ledge under beautiful hand crack (...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Lower Peanuts Slideshow Add Photo
Photo by Myke Komarnitsky

BETA PHOTO: Photo by Myke Komarnitsky

The view from Green Spur area on a clear Feb. morning.

The view from Green Spur area on a clear Feb. morn...


Comments on Lower Peanuts Add Comment
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By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 20, 2007

Does anyone know the name and rating of the sweet face route up the yellow streak to the right of Scorpions and left of the bolted 5.13 arete? Thanks.

By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 20, 2007

Open project, bolted late 1990s by Fred Knapp and dubbed The Ordinary and the Mundane.