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Lower Peanuts

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Guitar T,S 
Aspenleaf Dihedral T 
Black Pearl S 
Blows Against the Empire T 
Chaucer T 
Cornered, straight up variation T 
Criller AKA Dwayne and Craig's Exellent Adventures T,TR 
Dihedral T 
Do or Do Not T 
Double Cracks T 
Easy Off T 
Empire Strikes Back, The T,TR 
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life) T,TR 
Faith, Hope and Charity T 
Fickle Finger of Eight T 
Forbidden Planet S 
Good Mourning T,TR 
Home Free T 
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) T 
Just Another Girl's Climb T,S 
Let's Jet S 
Narrow Gate, The T 
No Visible Means of Support T 
Nova T,TR 
Off The Cuff T 
Peanuts T 
Pretender, The T 
Right Escape T 
Sacred and the Profane, The S 
Scorpions T 
Shield, The T 
Sickle T 
Star Track T,TR 
Strata Outta Compton T 
Strolling T 
Tracer T 
Trouble And Strife T,TR 
West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 
Whiskey Gala T 
Wired T 
X-Wing T 
Young, Blonde, and Easy T 
Your Basic Lieback T 

Lower Peanuts Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,400'
Location: 39.92885, -105.28656 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 12,803
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 18, 2006


67° | 50°
Memorial Day

70° | 46°

60° | 43°

62° | 47°

69° | 50°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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2016 Closure on Shirt Tail Peak Effective March 11,2016 MORE INFO >>>


There are two smaller, N facing crags that make up the Peanuts Walls - Upper and Lower. This division covers the Lower Peanuts Wall for organizational purposes. Here you will find routes from 1-3 pitches in length. No route here is exceptionally easy nor difficult. This crag has an advantage of shade in the summer heat. Here, you may feel the feeling of being up with the birds while still close to the ground. Also, there are benefits of some element of isolation with excellent views of the entire northern half of Eldorado Canyon, in particular Redgarden Wall and the West Ridge.

While no climb here is likely to be top twenty in Eldorado Canyon, you can find delightful terrain for traditional-oriented, moderate climber. Some of the gems here include: Your Basic Lieback, 5.6; Star Wars, 5.8; the namesake route, Peanuts (opened by the amazing Layton Kor & Charles Roskosz in 1961), 5.9; Blows Against the Empire, 5.11a; Forbidden Planet, 5.11 a/b; Home Free, 5.11b, & Just Another Girl's Climb, 5.12a/b s.

The left side of the crag is likely the terrain for the seekers of the obscure or runout. Few climbers travel this side of the crag.

Note there is still some loose rock here in places. Caution and helmets may be advisable. Ken Black, on the first free ascent of The Shield, fell to his death after pulling a large block off and chopping his rope.

Descents involve either rappelling or walkoff/scramble off to the climber's right.

Note, this is not a child nor dog friendly area.

Getting There 

There are several ways of approaching the wall. The easiest access is achieved by parking at the western end of the park, possibly at the Rattlesnake Gulch trailhead (about 150m West of the Milton Boulder). Then, head east on this nearly-flat, Fowler Trail probably 1/4 mile until you are below these two crags. Ascend a non-erosive path up the talus field with some boulder hopping to Lower Peanuts.

The other way of getting here is to hike up the Bastille Trail then head West until you're below the talus field.

Climbing Season

Weather station 0.4 miles from here

43 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',3]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lower Peanuts

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lower Peanuts:
Your Basic Lieback   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Dihedral   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   
West Crack (aka Star Wars)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches   
Cornered, straight up variation   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad   
Peanuts   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Blows Against the Empire   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Do or Do Not   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Scorpions   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Young, Blonde, and Easy   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Forbidden Planet   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
The Sacred and the Profane   5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Black Pearl   5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
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Comments on Lower Peanuts Add Comment
Show which comments
By kevinnlong
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 23, 2008
WASPS are in the area near the base of STAR WARS and YOUR BASIC LAYBACK. We had problems with them by 9:30 AM. If you want to climb WASP free for sure, start earlier!!!
By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 20, 2007
Does anyone know the name and rating of the sweet face route up the yellow streak to the right of Scorpions and left of the bolted 5.13 arete? Thanks.

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