Lower Peanuts Rock Climbing
Topo for Lower Peanuts. Photo by Myke Komarnitsky...
|Bastille - M-F closures. Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>|
There are two smaller, N facing crags that make up the Peanuts Walls - Upper
and Lower. This division covers the Lower Peanuts Wall for organizational purposes. Here you will find routes from 1-3 pitches in length. No route here is exceptionally easy nor difficult. This crag has an advantage of shade in the summer heat. Here, you may feel the feeling of being up with the birds while still close to the ground. Also, there are benefits of some element of isolation with excellent views of the entire northern half of Eldorado Canyon, in particular Redgarden Wall and the West Ridge.
While no climb here is likely to be top twenty in Eldorado Canyon, you can find delightful terrain for traditional-oriented, moderate climber. Some of the gems here include: Your Basic Lieback
, 5.6; Star Wars
, 5.8; the namesake route, Peanuts
(opened by the amazing Layton Kor & Charles Roskosz in 1961), 5.9; Blows Against the Empire
, 5.11a; Forbidden Planet
, 5.11 a/b; Home Free
, 5.11b, & Just Another Girl's Climb
, 5.12a/b s.
The left side of the crag is likely the terrain for the seekers of the obscure or runout. Few climbers travel this side of the crag.
Note there is still some loose rock here in places. Caution and helmets may be advisable. Ken Black, on the first free ascent of The Shield, fell to his death after pulling a large block off and chopping his rope.
Descents involve either rappelling or walkoff/scramble off to the climber's right.
Note, this is not a child nor dog friendly area.
There are several ways of approaching the wall. The easiest access is achieved by parking at the western end of the park, possibly at the Rattlesnake Gulch trailhead (about 150m West of the Milton Boulder). Then, head east on this nearly-flat, Fowler Trail probably 1/4 mile until you are below these two crags. Ascend a non-erosive path up the talus field with some boulder hopping to Lower Peanuts.
The other way of getting here is to hike up the Bastille Trail then head West until you're below the talus field.
Weather station 0.4 miles from here
43 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',3]
Classic Climbing Routes in Lower Peanuts
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lower Peanuts
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lower Peanuts:
Dihedral 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch
Peanuts 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch
Do or Do Not 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Scorpions 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Black Pearl 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For Lower Peanuts
The Sacred and the Profane 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
: Eldorado Canyon SP
: ... : Lower Peanuts
The Sacred and the Profane is a sport climbing history lesson. It's hard to experience the slabby, old school style and sparse bolting on TSATP without being transported back to a time when lycra was king, and footwork, technique, and finesse were the rule. To start TSATP, climb the start of Peanuts, and traverse 30 feet right along an easy ramp until you are below a small roof which is capped by a blunt arete. Clip the first bolt, make some easy moves over the roof, and then setu...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
BETA PHOTO: Photo by Myke Komarnitsky
The view from Green Spur area on a clear Feb. morn...
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 23, 2008
WASPS are in the area near the base of STAR WARS and YOUR BASIC LAYBACK. We had problems with them by 9:30 AM. If you want to climb WASP free for sure, start earlier!!!
By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 20, 2007
Does anyone know the name and rating of the sweet face route up the yellow streak to the right of Scorpions and left of the bolted 5.13 arete? Thanks.