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Lower Peanuts

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Guitar 
Aspenleaf Dihedral 
Black Pearl 
Blows Against the Empire 
Chaucer 
Cornered, straight up variation 
Dihedral 
Do or Do Not 
Double Cracks 
Easy Off 
Empire Strikes Back, The 
Faith, Hope and Charity 
Fickle Finger of Eight 
Forbidden Planet 
Home Free 
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) 
Just Another Girl's Climb 
Let's Jet 
Narrow Gate, The 
No Visible Means of Support 
Nova 
Off The Cuff 
Peanuts 
Pretender, The 
Right Escape 
Sacred and the Profane, The 
Scorpions 
Shield, The 
Sickle 
Star Track 
Strolling 
Tracer 
Trouble And Strife 
West Crack (aka Star Wars) 
Whiskey Gala 
Wired 
X-Wing 
Young, Blonde, and Easy 
Your Basic Lieback 

Lower Peanuts 


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Elevation: 6,400'
Lat, Long: 39.92885, -105.28656 Map Incorrect?
Page Views: 54,543
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 18, 2006
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Topo for Lower Peanuts.

Photo by Myke Komarnitsky...
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

There are two smaller, N facing crags that make up the Peanuts Walls - Upper and Lower. This division covers the Lower Peanuts Wall for organizational purposes. Here you will find routes from 1-3 pitches in length. No route here is exceptionally easy nor difficult. This crag has an advantage of shade in the summer heat. Here, you may feel the feeling of being up with the birds while still close to the ground. Also, there are benefits of some element of isolation with excellent views of the entire northern half of Eldorado Canyon, in particular Redgarden Wall and the West Ridge.

While no climb here is likely to be top twenty in Eldorado Canyon, you can find delightful terrain for traditional-oriented, moderate climber. Some of the gems here include: Your Basic Lieback, 5.6; Star Wars, 5.8; the namesake route, Peanuts (opened by the amazing Layton Kor & Charles Roskosz in 1961), 5.9; Blows Against the Empire, 5.11a; Forbidden Planet, 5.11 a/b; Home Free, 5.11b, & Just Another Girl's Climb, 5.12a/b s.

The left side of the crag is likely the terrain for the seekers of the obscure or runout. Few climbers travel this side of the crag.

Note there is still some loose rock here in places. Caution and helmets may be advisable. Ken Black, on the first free ascent of The Shield, fell to his death after pulling a large block off and chopping his rope.

Descents involve either rappelling or walkoff/scramble off to the climber's right.

Note, this is not a child nor dog friendly area.


Getting There 

There are several ways of approaching the wall. The easiest access is achieved by parking at the western end of the park, possibly at the Rattlesnake Gulch trailhead (about 150m West of the Milton Boulder). Then, head east on this nearly-flat, Fowler Trail probably 1/4 mile until you are below these two crags. Ascend a non-erosive path up the talus field with some boulder hopping to Lower Peanuts.

The other way of getting here is to hike up the Bastille Trail then head West until you're below the talus field.


39 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',4]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',4],['5.8',5],['5.9',4],['5.10',8],['5.11',11],['5.12',2],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Peanuts:
Your Basic Lieback   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Dihedral   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   
West Crack (aka Star Wars)   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches   
Cornered, straight up variation   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad   
Peanuts   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Blows Against the Empire   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Home Free   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad   
Scorpions   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Forbidden Planet   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Young, Blonde, and Easy   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Just Another Girl's Climb   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, Sport   
The Sacred and the Profane   5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ E7 6c R     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Black Pearl   5.13 8a 29 X- E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in Lower Peanuts

Featured Route For Lower Peanuts
The Black Pearl starts to the right of the black streak and traverses left into the groove of Scorpion.

Black Pearl 5.13 8a 29 X- E7 6c  CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Lower Peanuts
Equipped by Fred Knapp. Tech 9!...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Lower Peanuts Slideshow Add Photo
Photo by Myke Komarnitsky
BETA PHOTO: Photo by Myke Komarnitsky
The view from Green Spur area on a clear Feb. morning.
The view from Green Spur area on a clear Feb. morn...
Comments on Lower Peanuts Add Comment
Show which comments
By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 20, 2007

Does anyone know the name and rating of the sweet face route up the yellow streak to the right of Scorpions and left of the bolted 5.13 arete? Thanks.

By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 20, 2007

Open project, bolted late 1990s by Fred Knapp and dubbed The Ordinary and the Mundane.