Lower Infirmary Slabs has mainly sport routes on a south-facing slab. It is a nice location during cooler months. There are several bolted face routes. The ratings in the climbing guides are way SANDBAGGED. These routes can be top roped or sport lead.
5.1 miles up the canyon, use pullout on the left (it is best to drive a little further and turn around at the turn off to the group of private cabins). Infirmary Slabs (Upper and Lower) are on the north side of the road. Hike up the steep trail to the right, and work your way up. Be careful of poison ivy as it is plentiful up here.
Per John Marsella: park at the mile marker 28 sign, walk downhill about 50 yards, cross the road, and follow a loose trail to the Lower Infirmary Slabs. Continue uphill around the left side of the slabs for TR access and a bit further for Short But Sweet. Be careful of poison ivy as it is plentiful both on the trail and around the belay area.
The crux is passing the first bolt. After you make the move, the climb is pretty easy the rest of the way. Easy to TR as the line is directly below the right set of top-anchor bolts (Plague Boys anchor). Also a safe lead if you bring the optional cam for the top, the best protected climb here.Two stars is compared to the other climbs on this cliff all of which seem be a bit more runout and indirect....[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Just uphill the first level above the lower slabs, on the left side between two big blocks is a 12' finger crack that is short but sweet. It goes at 5.9- "Short but Sweet" done 7/21 by Bill Morris and Pebby Johns. To get to the crack, simply follow the trial around the left side of the slab and scramble up and to the left and you should see it.
I spent a while hiking through the rocky slops by the "cabins" looking for the Infirmary Slabs with very little to reference where I was. The so-called "ranger cabins" are these obscure, abandoned buildings hidden in some brush behind a large fenced area that is on someone's private property just off the north side of the road before the pullout at 5.1 miles. These cabins are often referred to by guidebooks and others, but beware, there are no signs or anything to tell you those are the ranger cabins. So, set the gauge on your car. The mile post 28 pullout on the south side of the road is the best reference for the Infirmary area.