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Grotto Left (East Side)

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Affirmative Action S 
Bedeviled S 
Bergers Bakeshop S 
Better Late than Never S 
Bush in a Blender S 
Chopping Block S 
Cruella de Vil S 
Diabolical S 
Drama Queen S 
El Areto Bolto Del Diablo S 
Evil S 
Evil Paradise S 
Good S 
Hidden Slab S 
Ken's Shitty Route (K.S.R.) S 
Lucifer's Hammer Drill S 
Memory Block S 
Muscle Crow S 
Ojo S 
Panic Attack T 
Prescribed Burn S 
Snazz By Nazz (aka Access Crack, Guillotine Crack p1) T 
Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package) T 
Under Powered S 
Unknown (Crack right of Ojo) T 
Waiting to Procrastinate S 

Grotto Left (East Side)  


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Page Views: 11,558
Administrators: DisturbingThePeace, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on May 15, 2006
Forecast:
Today

61-73°F
Mon

58-77°F
Tue

60-84°F
Wed

62-93°F
Thu

60-89°F
Fri

60-87°F
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BETA PHOTO: Picture of lower grotto routes Courtesy of Rick ...

Description 

This area encompasses the entire left wall of the Grotto. Most of the climbs are typical Diablo climbs similar to Early wall, and Winter wall utilizing sloping crimps on vertical walls. As you continue up the grotto beginning around Evil Paradise (~100 yards up canyon) the upper tier's less featured tan basalt connects with the canyon floor, resulting in a more technical and varied style of climbing.

The rock, while incredibly dense, can be extremely fractured, requiring precautions taken to prevent rock fall. Climb cautiously and consider helmets and belaying (and standing) out of the fall line of climbers. Be especially careful after the winter freeze / thaw cycle.

The wall is East Facing so it gets morning shade and afternoon sun. In the winter it gets more shade and gets more sun in the summer. In early April the wall stays shaded until ~3:00. A good tool for estimating Sun / Shade beta is is the online sunearthtool.com estimator tool

Getting There 

After reaching the Grotto area, the Grotto Left is the left side of the Grotto. This area includes everything on the left wall, except the upper Tier climbs.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.7 miles from here

26 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',12],['5.11',7],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Grotto Left (East Side):
Waiting to Procrastinate   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport   
Good   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package)   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad   
Evil Paradise   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 80'   
Evil   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
El Areto Bolto Del Diablo   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 90'   
Chopping Block   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Affirmative Action   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport   
Prescribed Burn   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 65'   
Bedeviled   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Better Late than Never   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
Bush in a Blender   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Muscle Crow   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Grotto Left (East Side)

Featured Route For Grotto Left (East Side)
Getting a good shake out and rest before moving in...

Prescribed Burn 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : Grotto Left (East Side)
Located at the far (south) end of the Grotto's left side are two enjoyable routes with nice position. Prescribed Burn is the left route of the two. Access the base of the route via a short fourth class scramble up the small ridge below the route or hike around the ridge and back up. From the belay platform, edge out left and up to clip the first bolt in a green, lichen-covered face. Side pull your way up to the big, comfy ledge. From the big ledge, climb cracks up and left past the second bolt ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Grotto Left (East Side) Slideshow Add Photo
Map of Evil Paradise area of the Grotto.  Courtesy...
BETA PHOTO: Map of Evil Paradise area of the Grotto. Courtesy...

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