Grotto Left (East Side) Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Map of Evil Paradise area of the Grotto. Courtesy...
This area encompasses the entire left wall of the Grotto. Most of the climbs are typical Diablo climbs similar to Early wall, and Winter wall utilizing sloping crimps on vertical walls. As you continue up the grotto beginning around Evil Paradise
(~100 yards up canyon) the upper tier's less featured tan basalt connects with the canyon floor, resulting in a more technical and varied style of climbing.
The rock, while incredibly dense, can be extremely fractured, requiring precautions taken to prevent rock fall. Climb cautiously and consider helmets and belaying (and standing) out of the fall line of climbers. Be especially careful after the winter freeze / thaw cycle.
The wall is East Facing so it gets morning shade and afternoon sun. In the winter it gets more shade and gets more sun in the summer. In early April the wall stays shaded until ~3:00. A good tool for estimating Sun / Shade beta is is the online sunearthtool.com estimator tool
After reaching the Grotto area, the Grotto Left is the left side of the Grotto. This area includes everything on the left wall, except the upper Tier climbs.
Weather station 6.7 miles from here
29 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Grotto Left (East Side)
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Grotto Left (East Side)
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Grotto Left (East Side):
Good 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Evil 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Bedeviled 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Muscle Crow 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Grotto Left (East Side)
El Areto Bolto Del Diablo 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b NM
: Santa Fe Area
: ... : Grotto Left (East Side)
This awesome route is likely one of the best 5.10s at Diablo, on par with the Winter Wall classic Grape Ape and the best of the Early Wall, Grotto, etc. Anchor your belayer to the two bolts on the right side of the gully. Clip the first two bolts on easy terrain before traversing left towards the arete. The route really gets going around bolt five, with tricky moves and a bizarre mantle to get established on the arete. From here, get psyched for 50 feet of continuous, technical face climbing on ...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
BETA PHOTO: Picture of lower grotto routes Courtesy of Rick ...