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Lower Gibraltar

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Conundrum 
Left of Rapture 
Lieback Annie 
Rapture, The 
Warrior Crack 

Lower Gibraltar 


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Elevation: 3,000'
Lat, Long: 34.4777, -119.6817 Map Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,071
Administrators: andy patterson, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: EricT on Feb 1, 2006
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Becca Polglase enjoys "the Rapture," one of Santa ...

Description 

The poorly named lower Gibraltar is actually up the road from the main wall. A little cliff with four moderate routes. South facing and secluded, a good place to go if Gibraltar is crowded and you have gumbies with you. There are two sets of anchors at the top and it is far easier to rappel to the bottom of the face.

It is a particularily nice area for gumbies because they get to do a rappel and then three or four climbs that are quite different from each other.


Getting There 

Drive 50 yards past the main Gibraltar area and park in a turnout on the downhill side of the road. Scramble out to the point and then right (200 yards) to the top of the climbs. The approach should take less than 2 minutes.


5 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',3],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Gibraltar:
Lieback Annie   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
The Rapture   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in Lower Gibraltar

Featured Route For Lower Gibraltar
R. Shore starting up the Warrior Crack .10c

Warrior Crack 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b  CA : Central Coast : ... : Lower Gibraltar
A short but fun route on the narrow east-facing buttress directly across the creek from T-Crack. Climb up into an alcove, clip the lone bolt of unknown age and variety, then pull through a short overhang onto a large mantle-shelf. Above this, a unique combination of crack-jamming and arete-slapping will see you through to the top near some large bushes where you build a gear anchor. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

News and Events For Lower Gibraltar
Photos of Lower Gibraltar Slideshow Add Photo
Nicole nears the top of Lower Gibraltar as fog works its way up the hill from the coast.
Nicole nears the top of Lower Gibraltar as fog wor...
Kathleen enjoys the spectacular views from atop Lower Gibraltar.
Kathleen enjoys the spectacular views from atop Lo...
Comments on Lower Gibraltar Add Comment
Show which comments
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 2, 2006

Note that the base of Lower Gibraltar is quite cramped, and 3 of the 4 routes start within just a few feet of one another. This area cannot really accommodate more than a few people at a time, and for that reason is not an ideal spot for groups.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Mar 31, 2006

Respectfully, I don't think this is a good spot for "gumbies" unless you are super proficient with traditional topropes (belayer above climber) and hauling systems.

Conundrum and the Rapture are both very sustained routes. Some beginners will really struggle on these two routes.

One way to make this work is to hang a draw on each bolt of the Rapture to give beginners something positive to pull on. The Rapture requires the use of 2 to 3 directionals anyway.

By Neil Roessler
May 24, 2011

Just climbed here this weekend. Found out that the route was called rapture after climbing there and ironically it was May 21.

All these routes are very fun and a great spot for beginning leaders. However, safety is critical on this rock due to the exposure at the base and although there is room for a few people, I cannot imagine being on the ledge with more than my partner.