Lower Finger Direct 5.10+ X
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| Type: | TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | Max Hinkle, 1960s |
| Submitted By: | Darin Lang on Aug 27, 2001 |
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Working my way up Lower Finger Direct.
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Seasonal falcon nesting closures MORE INFO >>>
The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This would be a bold lead indeed, with only a single unreliable drilled angle (placed after the FA) near the crux. A fall below the pin would probably result in, at best, a ride to the hospital. It is best done as a TR after climbing Finger Ramp or Lower Finger Traverse, and definitely worth doing when set up in this fashion.
Climb straight up the improbable slab directly beneath the anchor in the finger alcove, moving slightly left and then back right. Because the rock is a bit soft and has few positive holds, the route requires finesse and balance rather than brute strength.
Protection If you want to lead it, you only need one QD to clip the single manky drilled angle (placed after the FA).
Location This starts at the base of the Tourist Gully below a slightly tiny, left-leaning dihedral.
Still going....
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Myong on Lower Finger Direct.
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Jason Partin on Lower Finger Direct.
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| Comments on Lower Finger Direct |
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By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Apr 23, 2002
| This a good place to practice slab technique. Set up a TR and smear like crazy. |
By Sean O'Dell
Apr 26, 2002
| Fun stuff. There are a handful of moves on this one with simply no hands at all. If you have climbing buddies who think they're all that because they power over the overhangs at Rifle Mountain regularly, put 'em on this one and watch them whimper ;-) |
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 14, 2002
| I thought this one wasn't too hard (on TR), maybe 5.9.... |
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 15, 2002
| No wonder I was able to climb it! |
By ROC
From: Englewood, CO
Mar 10, 2003
| I thought this was a really fun climb. Small edges and very balancey moves. It really makes you think to figure out how to climb with next to no holds. |
By David Conlin
Oct 24, 2003
rating: 5.10a
| I, too, did not think this was as hard as 10+. Maybe 10-. Fun route to toprope. |
By Brian T. Wandzilak
Oct 27, 2003
| According the guidebook, you gain a seam to the right about 15 feet off the ground. You then follow this to the only pin on the route where you find a jug and go for the anchors. I would like to think this is a 5.10+, but I agree maybe not the hard. . . Later. |
By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Apr 19, 2004
rating: 5.10b X
| Thin and fun. A smeary "boulder" problem traverses the bottom of the wall from Finger Direct's start up to the bottom of the Tourist Gully. |
By Dylan Scott
Jun 2, 2004
rating: 5.10a
| This is a great climb! I just climbed it yesterday for the first time. Do the Finger Traverse to set up a toprope and then go at it. I would rate it at a low 5.10 personally. Great climb though! |
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Oct 23, 2004
rating: 5.10b
| 5.10b sounds just right for the rating. There appears to be several ways to negotiate the upper and middle sections. I traversed right down low to the diagonal seam while my partner went straight up. Very crimpy and fun!
On a sad note, a little baby pigeon took a fall from a perch way up above us while we were climbing. Buried the little dude under some rocks at the base of the route. |
By Dave Jackson
Mar 10, 2006
| This is one of the best TRs in GOG! As you're rapping from the chains it looks pretty bleak and blank, but as you start climbing you really get to know GOG sandstone, where holds are, how to use them, and how to trust the edges. Climbing the Direct after either the Ramp or the Traverse makes for a wonderful afternoon. You could probably do all three if other climbers aren't around. A great confidence builder! I would agree with the .10b/c rating proposed earlier. Definitely not .10-, maybe if you cheated.
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By GMBurns
Sep 19, 2008
rating: 5.10c/d X
| A fun TR. I would not want to lead this, though. |
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 27, 2010
rating: 5.10a/b X
| This is 5.9 in the old guidebooks ;-)
Very sweet and sustained climbing! I went straight up off the ground, joining the seam about halfway up; I hear that going right for the seam is easier. Still, I thought the crux was a couple moves after the pin, willing your foot to stick on a very improbable edge. |
By Max Hinkle
Oct 11, 2011
| In 1967 when I first ascended lower Finger Direct, it was a real challenge for me. I was only 5'8", had no climbing chalk, and the best climbing shoes were made with Vibram soles. I had done the routes above the finger a few times and took time to study the rock while rappeling down from above the finger. I actually hated to deface the rock, so I climbed it unassisted by protection. This made it a real mental challenge for me. The one piece of protection put in must have been put in later. I was really glad to finish the climb and to hook up an upper rope for my second. I think I did this whole climb on a dare? Max Hinkle, 2011 |
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