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a. The Uberfall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
69 T 
Apoplexy T 
BB Route T 
Birthday Biscuit Boy T 
Black Fly T 
Boston T,TR 
Brat Direct, The T 
Bridal Path T 
Bunny T 
CC Route T 
Charie TR 
Clover T 
Coronary T,TR 
Crimson Corner T 
Crowberry Ridge T 
Das Wiggles T 
DD Route T 
Dirty Chimney T 
Dirty Gerdie T 
Double Chin T 
Double Clutch T 
Easy Keyhole T 
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 
Eyebrow T 
Eyesore T 
Fancy Idiot T 
Fitschen's Folly T,TR 
Flake, The T,TR 
Handy Andy T 
Harvard T 
Heel Hook and Hack-it T 
Herdie Gerdie T 
Horseman T 
Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang T,TR 
Jacob's Ladder T,TR 
Junior T,TR 
Katzenjammer T 
Ken's Crack T 
Keyhole T 
Laurel T 
Low Exposure T 
Lower Eaves T 
Mitty Mouse  T 
Nice 5.9 Climb T 
Nice Crack Climb T 
No Picnic T 
No Solution T,TR 
Nosedive T 
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 
Phoebe T,TR 
Pony Express T 
Red Cabbage T 
Red Cabbage Right T 
Retribution T 
Rhododendron T 
Shit or Go Blind T 
Shitty Mitty T,TR 
Short and Simple T 
Short Job T,TR 
Sonja T 
Squiggles T 
Squiggles Direct T,TR 
Star Route, The T 
Stupid Crack T 
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 
Sudoriferous T 
Susie A T 
Trapped Like a Rat T 
Uberfall Descent T 
Unknown TR 
Walter Mitty T 
Yale T 
Unsorted Routes:

Lower Eaves 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 1,241
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Oct 14, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Ariel on the crux of Lower Eaves, Gunks, 3/18/2012

Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>


Climb a right-facing corner to a big ledge. Traverse up and out left to the hanging corner of the big roof (crux) and move around to the face. After you have become established on the face, the most sensible option is to go up and slightly right to the Horseman anchor.


At the right end of the long, prominent roof system of the Uberfall, about 20 feet or so left of Horseman.


Standard 'Gunks rack.

Photos of Lower Eaves Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jasmine cruising the crux of Lower Eaves, Gunks 3/...
Jasmine cruising the crux of Lower Eaves, Gunks 3/...

Comments on Lower Eaves Add Comment
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By David Stowe
Aug 14, 2011

I did this for the first time yesterday. It's a really good climb that deserves more traffic. It's definitely not 9-. I thought it was very solid for 5.9 and harder than its neighbor Apoplexy and others such as Pink Laurel. It is also fairly committing in a number of places. You're basically into the business as soon as you start and have a good bit of air and exposure after one move. It has big moves out an overhang. A hard committing move off of an iffy hold and a great deal of solid 5.8 - 5.9 face climbing after you think that you are done with the work. It's also a pretty long pitch, about 120 feet or so, in which you are doing solid climbing the whole way except for the last 30 feet or so. There is also very little chalk on it after the first few moves so there is actually some route finding involved as it not just connect the chalk dots. Highly recommended for anyone seeking a bit of challenge, a bit of adventure and a lot of fun .. but NOT a good route for the aspiring 5.9 leader.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 10, 2014

Enjoyable climb. I think the crux comes after the overhang; in the form of a thin face with no gear.

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