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Climb a right-facing corner to a big ledge. Traverse up and out left to the hanging corner of the big roof (crux) and move around to the face. After you have become established on the face, the most sensible option is to go up and slightly right to the Horseman anchor.
At the right end of the long, prominent roof system of the Uberfall, about 20 feet or so left of Horseman.
Standard 'Gunks rack.
Jasmine cruising the crux of Lower Eaves, Gunks 3/...
|By David Stowe|
Aug 14, 2011
I did this for the first time yesterday. It's a really good climb that deserves more traffic. It's definitely not 9-. I thought it was very solid for 5.9 and harder than its neighbor Apoplexy and others such as Pink Laurel. It is also fairly committing in a number of places. You're basically into the business as soon as you start and have a good bit of air and exposure after one move. It has big moves out an overhang. A hard committing move off of an iffy hold and a great deal of solid 5.8 - 5.9 face climbing after you think that you are done with the work. It's also a pretty long pitch, about 120 feet or so, in which you are doing solid climbing the whole way except for the last 30 feet or so. There is also very little chalk on it after the first few moves so there is actually some route finding involved as it not just connect the chalk dots. Highly recommended for anyone seeking a bit of challenge, a bit of adventure and a lot of fun .. but NOT a good route for the aspiring 5.9 leader.