Lower East Face, Sphinx
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P1, 5.3ish - Climb from the base of the Sphinx up to a ledge system with trees and bushes. Traverse left.
P2, 5.5ish - Climb up and into a cool chimney. Crank out of the chimney on your left, and belay at a large tree. Watch out for big loose rocks on this pitch!
The crux pitch. It's not obvious where to go, and it looks like there is very little pro. An easy ramp tempts one left, but avoid this temptation unless you want to climb A Sphinxter Says What?
. Instead, move up and right from the belay to the base of a steep face. Then, follow "the line of least resistance" more or less straight up, ending the short pitch at a small tree. You can get pro in on this pitch, but at the start it appears unprotected and more difficult than 5.7. Choose your line carefully.
Now join the Upper East Face route, and romp 2 more pitches of easy slabs to the summit.
Begin at the lowest point on the SE Face.
Standard Flatirons rack.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
3 days ago
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Directly up from the tree was 5.8 with some questionable rock, very little protection (a #3 Camalot would have perhaps protected the exit moves), and is quite steep. If you fall, you will need med-evaced or a body recovery.