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 ADVANCED
The Sphinx
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A Sphinxter Says What? 
BFE Dihedral, The 
Curse of the Pharaoh 
Half Man, Half Beast 
Lower East Face, Sphinx 
Pharaoh's Tomb 
Upper East Face, Sphinx 

Lower East Face, Sphinx 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b R

   
Type: Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 172
Submitted By: George Bell on Oct 2, 2008
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  • Description 

    P1, 5.3ish - Climb from the base of the Sphinx up to a ledge system with trees and bushes. Traverse left.

    P2, 5.5ish - Climb up and into a cool chimney. Crank out of the chimney on your left, and belay at a large tree. Watch out for big loose rocks on this pitch!

    The crux pitch. It's not obvious where to go, and it looks like there is very little pro. An easy ramp tempts one left, but avoid this temptation unless you want to climb A Sphinxter Says What?. Instead, move up and right from the belay to the base of a steep face. Then, follow "the line of least resistance" more or less straight up, ending the short pitch at a small tree. You can get pro in on this pitch, but at the start it appears unprotected and more difficult than 5.7. Choose your line carefully.

    Now join the Upper East Face route, and romp 2 more pitches of easy slabs to the summit.


    Location 

    Begin at the lowest point on the SE Face.


    Protection 

    Standard Flatirons rack.



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