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Lower Dodge City

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Frontier Justice T 
Hangman Jury S 

Lower Dodge City  


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Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 31, 2005
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Description 

Lower Dodge city is the obvious collection of north-facing faces due south of the Corral Wall. Directly west of it is the Ponderosa Wall and Black Tower, while to the west is Upper Dodge City via a rugged approach. Shady most of the day with nice gray rock and some high quality routes. There are two sport climbs climbs here which are of high enough quality to warrant a visit. Hangman Jury (5.11b) ascends a pyramid of rock with thin moves down low to a fun finish on large holds, while Frontier Justice (5.11c) climbs a short hand crack to a wild-looking roof and finishes with polished slab moves.

Despite the quality routes these routes seldom see traffic. Best climbed when temperatures permit climbing in the shade.

Getting There 

Approach by first hiking to the Corral Wall, and then scrambling south up through boulders to reach the obvious north-facing formation. Plan on 30 minutes to approach the base of the formation.

While possible to approach from the south via the upper reaches of Rattlesnake Canyon, this approach can only be recommended if already in that vicinity. Plan on lots of boulder-hopping and slow going.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.9 miles from here

2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Dodge City:
Frontier Justice   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in Lower Dodge City

Featured Route For Lower Dodge City
Early repeat for Bartlett's guidebook cover

Frontier Justice 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Lower Dodge City
A hand crack start leads up to an imposing roof (5.10+) which goes at a far easier grade than appearances suggest. Once established over the lip the climbing is off-vertical, thin face with difficult smearing. The crux will be found around the vicinity of the fifth bolt with easier moves leading to the top and a bolted anchor/rap. This spectacular route is well worth the rugged thirty minute approach. Almost a sport climb, except for the crack start, but the rest of the route is protected like ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Lower Dodge City Slideshow Add Photo
Lower Dodge City. Photo by Blitzo.
Lower Dodge City. Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Lower Dodge City Add Comment
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By Murf
Feb 3, 2005
Having gone both up and down the Corral Wall to LDC, I actually think going up the falls to Rattlesnake proper and then down a bit to here is the way to go.
By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 3, 2005
Murf - You're correct that it's easier coming in from above, as you are descending the boulder field instead of climbing up through it. However, for climbers already at the Corral Wall, or more familiar with that approach, going up the canyon (with the wall in view) makes more sense.