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DescriptionDespite having arguably the best climbing in Queen Creek, Lower Devil's Canyon gets relatively little traffic due to it's difficult aproach. Getting ThereTake the Oak Flat Road past the campground. About 1/4 mile before the mine, turn left on the rough dirt road (close the gate behind you!) and follow it for a few miles on an ever-worsening road until just past a meadow. Turn left at the bottom of the wash (at the old windmill) and drive for another mile or so to the end of the road and park. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Devil's Canyon:
Smokin' The Toad 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet Hackberry Creek
Going Out Of Chicken Sale 5.8+ Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Coop
El Throatchoker Grande 5.9- Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Lunchbox
Dacite Conspiracy 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet Hackberry Creek
Accelerated Climbology 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 165 feet Lower Devil's East (LDE) : Climbology Area
Hidden Splendor 5.9 Sport, 85 feet Glitter Box Area
The Shmotem Pole 5.10b Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Shmotem Pole
Adios Larry 5.10b PG13 Sport, 2 pitches, 160 feet Glitter Box Area
Faith, Hope & Jeep 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Lower Devil's East (LDE) : Microskunk Area
Stairway to Heaven 5.10 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet The Refuge : Heaven's Gate
Pathological Optimist 5.10 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet Totem-Proto Area
Centipede Corner 5.10b/c Trad, 110 feet Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Lunchbox
Damsels in Distress 5.10b/c PG13 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 160 feet Glitter Box Area
Octabulgey 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet The Torch : The Bulges
The Totem Pole 5.10c/d Sport, 2 pitches, 150 feet Totem-Proto Area
Eyes of the World 5.11a PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 115 feet Glitter Box Area
High Man on the Shmotem Pole 5.11- Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Shmotem Pole
Cold Rush 5.11- Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet Lower Devil's East (LDE) : Southern Crags
Double Fault 5.12 Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Faulty Towers : The Towers
Live and Let Dyno 5.12 Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet The Torch : The Torch
Featured Route For Lower Devil's Canyon
Stairway to Heaven 5.10 AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Heaven's Gate
The prominent and narrow arête that points to the southwest towards the northern side of this area. Just to the right of "In Alignment" and starts about 20-30 ft to the right. Climb the lower crest of this arête through easy ground protecting with gear. Clip the first bolt as the gear thins and the climbing gets more challenging. Stay on the arête crest to maintain the exposure and the grade. Clip 3 more bolts and protect with solid gear through the steeper crux section. Easier ground with good ...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
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