Rising up behind the Trailside boulders beside North Marsh, the Lower Cliff is mostly overlooked and rarely climbed despite having a great collection of cracks and roofs. The crag catches sun for most of the day along with the boulders, although suffers from seepage and runoff from the hillside above after a rain. At its highest point on the left side, the cliff is roughly 60'. Grades range from 5.5 to 5.11 and there is still potential for a few new climbs alongside classics like Seaver's Folly and the Crack to Nowhere. Chances are you'll have the crag to yourself (or you'll have to share with the spiders).
From Boulder Natural parking, walk for maybe 10 mins towards the Lower Slabs and you'll see the cliff on the left before you reach Overlooked. From Round Pond, walk towards Natural for 5 mins or so, pass the Slabs and you'll see the cliff on the right.
The defining moment of this climb is pulling the tricky, bouldery roof that you'll encounter halfway up. The protection is good for the crux, but the 15 feet of slab afterwards might have you feeling a little nervous. Starting at a head high block at the base of the crag, mantle up then follow a thin crack and face holds up to a ledge. Traverse left for 15 feet beneath the roof until you can get into the handcrack with a small tree above. Use whatever trickery you can to get over the roof an...[more]Browse More Classics in NH