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Lower Cheeks

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Active Boys Puke a Lot T,S 
All Dogs Go to Heaven S 
Attractive Nuisance S 
Clay T 
Engines of Archimedes S 
Fiction T 
Friendly Fire S 
Gerberding Route T,TR 
Green Room, The T,S,TR 
Heat Seeker T,TR 
Tango for Two T 
Zipper (complete aid line), The T 
Zipper, The T 

Lower Cheeks 


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Administrators: Peter Franzen, Jon Nelson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Drewsky on Dec 30, 2008
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Ian enjoying the first post cleaning lead. 4/13 (T...

Description 

The Cheeks comprise the large white formation on the right side of the Upper Walls. It is left of the Diamond, and above and left of Duck Wall and Lookout Point.

The Lower Cheeks is the bottom half, and ends on the large ledge splitting the formation called The Beach. As this ledge is huge and easily accessed by a cable, the Lower Cheeks is perhaps the best place for toproping at Index. And like the Upper Cheeks, has routes that stay dry during rainfall.

Routes here include such classics as The Zipper, (.10b) and the spectacular Clay, (.11+), as well as several quality sport climbs such as Friendly Fire (10b), Engines of Archimedes (11d), and all Dogs Go to Heaven (.12c).


Getting There 

Upon reaching the Upper Wall via the trail (about 30 minutes from the Country), you will see a water streak and/or waterfall. Turn right and cross the stream, following a path downwards and eventually back up. You will pass many routes to your left, eventually reaching Clay, which is an obvious left-facing corner. Total: about 40 minutes from the Country.


Toproping 

It is easy to set up topropes on the Lower Cheeks, particularly so on the left side. Here several bolt anchors are set along the Perverse Traverse, which is easy to walk onto. Routes include

Gerberding Route
The Green Room
Heat Seeker
Friendly Fire
Engines of Archimedes

Just before the traverse, one can use the tree in front of the large block to toprope

Black Planet (5.9)
Ted, Ted Nugent (11c)

By traversing onto the Beach, one can rap down to the anchors atop P1 of Clay and TR that route. Also, the nearby Pressure Drop Wall has several classic crack lines that are easily TRed.

Also, if you climb P1 of The Zipper (10b), you can TR with one rope three other routes on the slab.


Climbing Season


13 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',4],['5.11',4],['5.12',3],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Cheeks:
Gerberding Route   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
The Zipper   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Friendly Fire   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
The Green Room   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Clay   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Engines of Archimedes   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   
Heat Seeker   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Attractive Nuisance   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Lower Cheeks

Featured Route For Lower Cheeks
The second pitch of Clay (10d). I scrubbed it a bit, but it could use a little more. I would love to bolt this Darryl I could see were the pins went but bolts in right place would make a really nice pitch.

Clay 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  WA : Index : ... : Lower Cheeks
Pitch one is fairly well-travelled. Pitch two may not have seen an ascent in the last fifteen years. The first pitch corner has it all; well, almost! Thin, funky climbing off the ground leads to a lieback past two bolts to a crack and a stance under a roof. Crack, face climbing past wild jugs and finally stemming leads to a tricky crux finish. Spectacular climbing.P2 climbs a slab up to the Beach. 5.10+ R; most likely not equipped for ('safe') free climbing....[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

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