|Lower Capitalist Crag
|Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>|
Lower Capitalist Crag has a selection of moderate sport climbs, a couple of "trad" routes, and a few harder testpieces for the Clear Creek Canyon climber wanting a change of scenery and avoidance of traffic noise. The crag faces east, has a quick and flat approach, and also provides warm ups for the routes up the hill on Capitalist -- yielding about a dozen routes total for a nice afternoon workout.
Most of the routes start off of exposed ledge systems, therefore it is wise to be conscious of belay anchors (fixed slung chockstones, belay bolts, or trad anchors). All routes can be done safely with one 60 meter rope. Be careful of loose rock on the ledges if above other climbers.
A few recommended routes: Lunchmoney (9+), Cheap Labor (10a), and Stroh's (11+).
Park on the west side of tunnel 2 in the MissionWall/Wall90s parking. Walk west to tunnel 3 and follow a trail upstream. At the base of the hill going up to Capitalist (where shotgun shells, glass, and beer cans usually reside), go downhill (usually marked by cairn)along a faint traversing trail to the ledges of the lower crag. Lunchmoney is the first climb you come to as you hop onto the ledge. The Contra ledge is the ramp above the top anchors of Mounty and Vitamin-N.
To approach Stroh's ledge, instead of going down hill to the main lower crag, follow a ramp (marked by "MAC JO" graffiti) up and left to find a big boulder at the base of the Stroh's route.
Lower Left Side
A. Vitamin N, 9-, 1p, 100', bolts.
B. Mounty, 8-, 1p, 100', gear.
C. Aries, 11, 1p, 100', bolts & pin.
D. Change/Cheap Labor, 9+, 1p, 100', bolts.
E. Five Finger Discount, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts.
F. Lunchmoney, 9+, 1p, 100', bolts.
G. Downsizing, 10-, 1p, 100' bolts.
Upper Left Side
H. Contra, 11, 1p, bolts.
Upper Right Side
I. Stroh's, 11-, 1p, bolts.
J. Stroh's Lite, 11+, 1p, TR or ?bolts & pin, no hangers?
Down low near Clear Creek (not in the L->R)
AA1. High Tides, 10+, 1p, 35', bolts.
AA2. Flexin' Flake, 10-, 1p, 30', gear.
13 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Lower Capitalist Crag
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Capitalist Crag:
Mounty 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Vitamin-N 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Lunchmoney 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Cheap Labor 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Aries 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
High Tides 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Stroh's 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For Lower Capitalist Crag
Lunchmoney 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a CO
: ... : Lower Capitalist Crag
Approach as for Upper Capitalist, but instead of going uphill to the crag, go down the broken hill to the southeast. Lunchmoney is located roughly hundred yards upstream from Upper Capitalist Crag. The chains are obvious from this point. There is a belay bolt on the ledge at the start of the climb. Climb up the steep face, pull through weakness in the roof to easy ledge system. The last three clips on the upper wall is the crux on a beautiful smooth flake. Rap 100 feet to ground. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Local Information for Lower Capitalist Crag
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Ken Leading Lunch Money.
Better view of the route, Ken on it.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Aug 18, 2005
Thanks for the awesome picture/topo it is great to have the routes on the picture and a key with grades even. Super job!!!!!!!
Jun 4, 2008
Does anyone know what route is between Lunch Money and Cheap Labor? IT looks new. And is still dirty.
|By Casey Bernal|
From: Arvada, CO
Jun 18, 2008
I also climbed this "new" route last week. Darren led up the first half with trad gear a couple years ago, before Cheap Labor was complete. The finish has been TR'ed several times using the directional bolt I placed between CL and Lunchmoney. There are several loose/detached blocks and the climbing is just OK, but was never good enough for us to commit to bolting it. It is also really really close to the two existing climbs that are much better.
The anchors are unfortunately cold-shuts, where the other anchors at the crag are quality hangers. I would give the route 1/2 star since the only redeeming climbing is in the last 12 feet. Probably ~5.9ish. Hopefully it will clean up a bit.
|By Brian Asbury|
Jul 21, 2011
If you left rock shoes at Lower Capitalist last night (7/21/11), I've got them & will happily give them back.
Jun 29, 2013
I left 4 orange draws with brown tape on the last bolt and chains of Vitamin-N due to lightning. Heading back in the morning. If somebody already grabbed them, I would appreciate them back.