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Lower Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Boy and His ArĂȘte T 
Beer Can Direct S 
Black Magic T 
Black Opal T 
Black Pyre T 
Blue Wind T 
Crown Royal T 
Farce T 
For Real Crack T 
Groove, The T 
Hemorroids in Flight T 
Jailbreak (variation) T,TR 
Novitiate's Nightmare T 
Pillar of Society S 
Sinbad-Herbert T 
Surrealistic Pillar T 
Surrealistic Pillar Direct T 
Wild Turkey T 

Lower Buttress Rock Climbing 

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Location: 38.8004, -120.137 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 89,389
Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Sep 4, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: Lower Buttress, Lover's Leap

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Like all rocks in the Lover's Leap area, this rock is huge, and an awesome (mostly) trad rock containing over 25 multipitch routes. Climbing is, as usual, granite fun with excellent horizontal dikes everywhere.

One of the best things about this 350 foot tall slab is that it's the fastest to get to from the camping area, taking about 10 minutes from the parking lot. The base area is also very developed, the tiering that was put in by the locals obviosly took some time, and makes for an inadvertant crash landing a much safer prospect.

All routes decend off the rock on the right (west) side of the rock in a gully that has a switchbacky yet developed trail.

Climbing on the Lower Buttress ranges from slightly overhung, to slightly slabby, with large crack systems, knobs, and other features to help you on almost all routes.

Getting There 

Approach time: 5 - 10 minutes.

From the parking lot, head left at the fork from the parking lot. Head gently uphill on the trail until 150 yards past the Monk boulder, which is the large 25 foot rock on the left side of the trail. You will see the Lower Buttress, and will find the trail heading back at a greater than 90 degree angle heading over a 3' hump and around a medium-sized tree. Head on this trail for about 150 yards, and you will be at the rock in front of one of few sport routes, which is known as A Boy and His Arete (5.10d).

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.5 miles from here

18 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lower Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lower Buttress:
Farce   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Surrealistic Pillar   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 270'   
For Real Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
The Groove   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Jailbreak (variation)   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Surrealistic Pillar Direct   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Blue Wind   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Hemorroids in Flight   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 150'   
Sinbad-Herbert   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Beer Can Direct   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Black Pyre   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Black Magic   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 160'   
Pillar of Society   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lower Buttress

Featured Route For Lower Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: View of surrealistic pillar

Surrealistic Pillar 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Lower Buttress
This excellent route ascends the entire length of the Lower Buttress, bringing you up out of the giant forest below and high enough so you think you're way the hell up. Then you top out, and realize that the main wall of Lover's Leap hovers over you, and that you're a mere peon in between the giant walls of horizontal dykes. For a 5.7, this has an excellent variety of terrian for only 3 pitches. Accessing the route is easy: Walking up to the Lower Buttress, walk right until you find the first ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Lower Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The base of The Lower Buttress, looking up and rig...
BETA PHOTO: The base of The Lower Buttress, looking up and rig...
Rock Climbing Photo: Neal Archambault on 'Beer Can Direct', 5.11a, Lowe...
Neal Archambault on 'Beer Can Direct', 5.11a, Lowe...

Comments on Lower Buttress Add Comment
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By Colin Parker
From: Idyllwild, CA
Jul 9, 2013
So I came to Lower Buttress the other day to try some routes at LL for the first time, and while waiting for some parties to finish the classics decided to try A Boy and His Arete. This thing is definitely not 10d and probably best not to call a sport route. A few rock scars indicated that crucial holds may have broken and the 10-15 foot spacing of bolts and distance to the first bolt kept it spicy. I managed to get up about 5 or 6 bolts before deciding to lower. Just a heads up to anyone thinking there's a moderate sport route here...

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