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Lower Buttress
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2" Prussik Pulley Bush

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El Capitan Haul Bag

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Five Ten Hornet Climbing Shoe

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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Magic 
Black Opal 
Black Pyre 
Blue Wind 
Crown Royal 
Farce 
For Real Crack 
Groove, The 
Hemorroids in Flight 
Novitiate's Nightmare 
Pillar of Society 
Sinbad-Herbert 
Surrealistic Pillar 
Surrealistic Pillar Direct 
Variation 
Wild Turkey 

Lower Buttress 


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Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Sep 4, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Lower Buttress, Lover's Leap

Description 

Like all rocks in the Lover's Leap area, this rock is huge, and an awesome (mostly) trad rock containing over 25 multipitch routes. Climbing is, as usual, granite fun with excellent horizontal dikes everywhere.

One of the best things about this 350 foot tall slab is that it's the fastest to get to from the camping area, taking about 10 minutes from the parking lot. The base area is also very developed, the tiering that was put in by the locals obviosly took some time, and makes for an inadvertant crash landing a much safer prospect.

All routes decend off the rock on the right (west) side of the rock in a gully that has a switchbacky yet developed trail.

Climbing on the Lower Buttress ranges from slightly overhung, to slightly slabby, with large crack systems, knobs, and other features to help you on almost all routes.


Getting There 

Approach time: 5 - 10 minutes.

From the parking lot, head left at the fork from the parking lot. Head gently uphill on the trail until 150 yards past the Monk boulder, which is the large 25 foot rock on the left side of the trail. You will see the Lower Buttress, and will find the trail heading back at a greater than 90 degree angle heading over a 3' hump and around a medium-sized tree. Head on this trail for about 150 yards, and you will be at the rock in front of one of few sport routes, which is known as A Boy and His Arete (5.10d).


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Buttress:
Farce   5.5     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
For Real Crack   5.7     Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet   
Surrealistic Pillar   5.7     Trad, 3 pitches, 270 feet   
The Groove   5.8 PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 475 feet   
Wild Turkey   5.8 R     Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet   
Surrealistic Pillar Direct   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Blue Wind   5.10     Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet   
Hemorroids in Flight   5.10c     Trad, 150 feet   
Crown Royal   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 180 feet   
Variation   5.10d R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Sinbad-Herbert   5.10d     Trad, 1 pitch, 180 feet   
Black Pyre   5.11a/b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet   
Black Magic   5.11c     Trad, 160 feet   
Pillar of Society   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Browse More Classics in Lower Buttress

Featured Route For Lower Buttress
New guidebooks probably have a prettier and more accurate topo but this one is free.

Pillar of Society 5.12a  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Lower Buttress
Pillar of Society is the first route you come to, as it is right at the top of the trail from the campground to the Lower Buttress. Look for the giant 3' diameter cobble....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Lower Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
The base of The Lower Buttress, looking up and right.

BETA PHOTO: The base of The Lower Buttress, looking up and rig...

Neal Archambault on 'Beer Can Direct', 5.11a, Lower Buttress

Neal Archambault on 'Beer Can Direct', 5.11a, Lowe...