Lower Buttress Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Lower Buttress, Lover's Leap
Like all rocks in the Lover's Leap area, this rock is huge, and an awesome (mostly) trad rock containing over 25 multipitch routes. Climbing is, as usual, granite fun with excellent horizontal dikes everywhere.
One of the best things about this 350 foot tall slab is that it's the fastest to get to from the camping area, taking about 10 minutes from the parking lot. The base area is also very developed, the tiering that was put in by the locals obviosly took some time, and makes for an inadvertant crash landing a much safer prospect.
All routes decend off the rock on the right (west) side of the rock in a gully that has a switchbacky yet developed trail.
Climbing on the Lower Buttress ranges from slightly overhung, to slightly slabby, with large crack systems, knobs, and other features to help you on almost all routes.
Approach time: 5 - 10 minutes.
From the parking lot, head left at the fork from the parking lot. Head gently uphill on the trail until 150 yards past the Monk boulder, which is the large 25 foot rock on the left side of the trail. You will see the Lower Buttress, and will find the trail heading back at a greater than 90 degree angle heading over a 3' hump and around a medium-sized tree. Head on this trail for about 150 yards, and you will be at the rock in front of one of few sport routes, which is known as A Boy and His Arete (5.10d).
Weather station 6.5 miles from here
18 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Lower Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lower Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lower Buttress:
Farce 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
The Groove 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Blue Wind 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Black Pyre 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Featured Route For Lower Buttress
Beer Can Direct 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
: Tahoe Vicinity
: ... : Lower Buttress
The height of the first bolt and the near-groundfall potential while clipping the second bolt keep many people off this climb; it shouldn't. After clipping the second bolt, clip the third, fire the crux, and enjoy a well-protected climb on horizontal dikes. A final, thin crux comes after the last bolt and before the anchor....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
BETA PHOTO: The base of The Lower Buttress, looking up and rig...
Neal Archambault on 'Beer Can Direct', 5.11a, Lowe...
By Colin Parker
From: Idyllwild, CA
Jul 9, 2013
So I came to Lower Buttress the other day to try some routes at LL for the first time, and while waiting for some parties to finish the classics decided to try A Boy and His Arete. This thing is definitely not 10d and probably best not to call a sport route. A few rock scars indicated that crucial holds may have broken and the 10-15 foot spacing of bolts and distance to the first bolt kept it spicy. I managed to get up about 5 or 6 bolts before deciding to lower. Just a heads up to anyone thinking there's a moderate sport route here...