Lower Buttress Direct
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Between Jammit Damnit and the approach gully to the upper deck look for a line of bolts.
Climb often wet moss and rock through bushes to a confusing 5.8 boulder problem or step right to avoid the crux at 5.5ish and just get it over with cause that's probably what you will feel like doing.
Between Jammit Damnit and the approach gully to the upper deck
6 bolts to anchor.
|Comments on Lower Buttress Direct
From: plymouth, nh
Jun 17, 2011
Lee your description is spot on. Except the bushes are now three to four foot trees haha, normally i like funky wierd routes this route deserves the bomb.
The natural line of the route is to the right at 5.5 but the bolts are placed left to force you to go that way, this makes it feel very contrived. It would be better as a beginner 5.5 if it went right and the trees were cut but since neither of those are going to happen, avoid this route.
Sep 10, 2012
I thought the crux was an interesting couple of moves. I'm not sure it deserves the lowest rating but when you take out the start ramp it's pretty short.
|By Matt Wilson|
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Apr 27, 2013
I found the crux to be excellently technical and thought provoking, more than making up for the forgettable start.