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Lower Buttress Direct 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tim Gotwols 2006
Page Views: 259
Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 5, 2010
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Description 

Between Jammit Damnit and the approach gully to the upper deck look for a line of bolts.

Climb often wet moss and rock through bushes to a confusing 5.8 boulder problem or step right to avoid the crux at 5.5ish and just get it over with cause that's probably what you will feel like doing.


Location 

Between Jammit Damnit and the approach gully to the upper deck


Protection 

6 bolts to anchor.



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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jun 17, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Lee your description is spot on. Except the bushes are now three to four foot trees haha, normally i like funky wierd routes this route deserves the bomb.

The natural line of the route is to the right at 5.5 but the bolts are placed left to force you to go that way, this makes it feel very contrived. It would be better as a beginner 5.5 if it went right and the trees were cut but since neither of those are going to happen, avoid this route.

By bsdi4
Sep 10, 2012

I thought the crux was an interesting couple of moves. I'm not sure it deserves the lowest rating but when you take out the start ramp it's pretty short.

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Apr 27, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

I found the crux to be excellently technical and thought provoking, more than making up for the forgettable start.