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Lower Buckhorn Wash
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Select Route:
Echoes 
Flapjack Tower 
Fools Paradise 
Groovin' at the Beach 
Haagenschlong 
I'm Rick James, Bitch 
James Tower AKA The Lightblub 
Jamison Engineering 
Life During Wartime 
Mallory's Mountain Marmalade / Outhouse Tower 
Short Stack 
Whale, The 

Lower Buckhorn Wash 


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Page Views: 17,928. Good page? (1 like)   
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on Oct 22, 2002

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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Looking down while soloing the bolt ladder.

Description 

There are several concentrations of routes on walls just off the road and up the sidecanyons including the Sex Wall and Pine Canyon Wall. Most of the routes require you to find a break in the Chinle to access the climbs.


Getting There 

Lower Buckhorn Wash routes extend north from the San Rafael River into the Buckhorn Wash up to a large camping area on the righthand side of the road. The campsites are at the base of a narrow wash, and there are several climbs on the buttress immediately past the wash with slings at the 100' mark that provide a good landmark. This camping area is around three miles from the bridge over the San Rafael.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Buckhorn Wash:
The Whale   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
Life During Wartime   5.8 A3+ R     Aid, 3 pitches, 430 feet, Grade IV   
Haagenschlong   5.9+ C1-     Aid, 3 pitches   
James Tower AKA The Lightblub   5.10 A1     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 200 feet   
Jamison Engineering   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Short Stack   5.10d     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
I'm Rick James, Bitch   5.11+     Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet   
Browse More Classics in Lower Buckhorn Wash

Featured Route For Lower Buckhorn Wash
The route in it's entirety.

Short Stack 5.10d  UT : San Rafael Swell : ... : Lower Buckhorn Wash
This route is on the Chocolate Wall, which is located on the west side of Buckhorn Wash a couple tenths of a mile north of Pine Canyon. The route is easily visible from BWR as the prominent splitter facing the road on the dark face.The approach from the BWR is straighforward and takes about five to ten minutes.A very diverse route starting with 20' of 5.8 offwidth with protection in the crack behind. This gives way to some excellent small hands in the back of a V-pod and finishes with fingers ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Comments on Lower Buckhorn Wash Add Comment
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By Brian Milhaupt
From: Golden, CO
Dec 17, 2002

Correction: 2.3 miles from the bridge