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There are several concentrations of routes on walls just off the road and up the sidecanyons including the Sex Wall and Pine Canyon Wall. Most of the routes require you to find a break in the Chinle to access the climbs.
Lower Buckhorn Wash routes extend north from the San Rafael River into the Buckhorn Wash up to a large camping area on the righthand side of the road. The campsites are at the base of a narrow wash, and there are several climbs on the buttress immediately past the wash with slings at the 100' mark that provide a good landmark. This camping area is around three miles from the bridge over the San Rafael.
Browse More Classics in Lower Buckhorn Wash
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Buckhorn Wash:
The Whale 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet
Life During Wartime 5.8 A3+ R Aid, 3 pitches, 430 feet, Grade IV
Haagenschlong 5.9+ C1- Aid, 3 pitches
James Tower AKA The Lightblub 5.10 A1 Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 200 feet
Jamison Engineering 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Short Stack 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet
I'm Rick James, Bitch 5.11+ Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet
Featured Route For Lower Buckhorn Wash
Short Stack 5.10d UT : San Rafael Swell : ... : Lower Buckhorn Wash
This route is on the Chocolate Wall, which is located on the west side of Buckhorn Wash a couple tenths of a mile north of Pine Canyon. The route is easily visible from BWR as the prominent splitter facing the road on the dark face.The approach from the BWR is straighforward and takes about five to ten minutes.A very diverse route starting with 20' of 5.8 offwidth with protection in the crack behind. This gives way to some excellent small hands in the back of a V-pod and finishes with fingers ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT