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Lower Buckhorn Wash

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Flapjack Tower T 
Fools Paradise T 
Groovin' at the Beach T 
I'm Rick James, Bitch S 
James Tower AKA The Lightblub T 
Jamison Engineering T 
Life During Wartime 
Outhouse Tower - Mallory's Mountain Marmalade 
Short Stack T 
Soup Kitchen S 
Whale, The T 
Wisdom Tooth - Cryptogramic Forest T 

Lower Buckhorn Wash Rock Climbing 

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Page Views: 11,649
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on Oct 22, 2002
This Afternoon

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Wyatt Edwards about to start the Bombay Chimney on...


There are several concentrations of routes on walls just off the road and up the sidecanyons including the Sex Wall and Pine Canyon Wall. Most of the routes require you to find a break in the Chinle to access the climbs.

Getting There 

Lower Buckhorn Wash routes extend north from the San Rafael River into the Buckhorn Wash up to a large camping area on the righthand side of the road. The campsites are at the base of a narrow wash, and there are several climbs on the buttress immediately past the wash with slings at the 100' mark that provide a good landmark. This camping area is around three miles from the bridge over the San Rafael.

Climbing Season

Weather station 20.5 miles from here

14 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lower Buckhorn Wash

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lower Buckhorn Wash:
Flapjack Tower   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   
Haagenschlong   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1-     Aid, 3 pitches   
James Tower AKA The Lightblub   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 200'   
Jamison Engineering   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Short Stack   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lower Buckhorn Wash

Featured Route For Lower Buckhorn Wash
Rock Climbing Photo: Wisdom Tooth on approach

Wisdom Tooth - Cryptogramic Forest 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  UT : San Rafael Swell : ... : Lower Buckhorn Wash
Wingate doesn't get much better than on this beautiful tower.P1 - Climb a long and sustained crack through just about every size to a big belay ledge. It starts thin and widens as it goes with the occasional chimneyish pod. 165', 5.11P2 - Climb a sandy wide crack in a dihedral to a ledge system. Follow the ledge system clear around to the other side of the tower and head up the first reasonable weakness to the summit. 75', 5.9+...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Comments on Lower Buckhorn Wash Add Comment
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By Brian Milhaupt
From: Golden, CO
Dec 17, 2002
Correction: 2.3 miles from the bridge

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