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Lower Buckhorn Wash

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Echoes 
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Haagenschlong 
I'm Rick James, Bitch S 
James Tower AKA The Lightblub T 
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Life During Wartime 
Outhouse Tower - Mallory's Mountain Marmalade 
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Whale, The T 
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Lower Buckhorn Wash 


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on Oct 22, 2002
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We rappelled The Light Bulb after dark, and the st...

Description 

There are several concentrations of routes on walls just off the road and up the sidecanyons including the Sex Wall and Pine Canyon Wall. Most of the routes require you to find a break in the Chinle to access the climbs.


Getting There 

Lower Buckhorn Wash routes extend north from the San Rafael River into the Buckhorn Wash up to a large camping area on the righthand side of the road. The campsites are at the base of a narrow wash, and there are several climbs on the buttress immediately past the wash with slings at the 100' mark that provide a good landmark. This camping area is around three miles from the bridge over the San Rafael.


Climbing Season


13 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',3],['5.10',3],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Buckhorn Wash:
Haagenschlong   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1-     Aid, 3 pitches   
James Tower AKA The Lightblub   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 200'   
Jamison Engineering   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Short Stack   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Lower Buckhorn Wash

Featured Route For Lower Buckhorn Wash
Wisdom Tooth on approach

Wisdom Tooth - Cryptogramic Forest 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  UT : San Rafael Swell : ... : Lower Buckhorn Wash
Wingate doesn't get much better than on this beautiful tower.P1 - Climb a long and sustained crack through just about every size to a big belay ledge. It starts thin and widens as it goes with the occasional chimneyish pod. 165', 5.11P2 - Climb a sandy wide crack in a dihedral to a ledge system. Follow the ledge system clear around to the other side of the tower and head up the first reasonable weakness to the summit. 75', 5.9+...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Local Information for Lower Buckhorn Wash
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By Brian Milhaupt
From: Golden, CO
Dec 17, 2002

Correction: 2.3 miles from the bridge