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There are several concentrations of routes on walls just off the road and up the sidecanyons including the Sex Wall and Pine Canyon Wall. Most of the routes require you to find a break in the Chinle to access the climbs.
Lower Buckhorn Wash routes extend north from the San Rafael River into the Buckhorn Wash up to a large camping area on the righthand side of the road. The campsites are at the base of a narrow wash, and there are several climbs on the buttress immediately past the wash with slings at the 100' mark that provide a good landmark. This camping area is around three miles from the bridge over the San Rafael.
12 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Lower Buckhorn Wash
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Buckhorn Wash:
Life During Wartime 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c A3+ R Aid, 3 pitches, 430'
Flapjack Tower 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Haagenschlong 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a C1- Aid, 3 pitches
Outhouse Tower - Mallory's Mountain Marmalade 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a A1+ Aid, 2 pitches, 150'
James Tower AKA The Lightblub 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b A1 Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 200'
Jamison Engineering 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Short Stack 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Fools Paradise 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
I'm Rick James, Bitch 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Featured Route For Lower Buckhorn Wash
James Tower AKA The Lightblub 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b A1 UT : San Rafael Swell : ... : Lower Buckhorn Wash
James Tower is the knob located on the west side of Buckhorn Wash approximately 1 mile north of the river. There is a pullout on the west side of the road a little way past the tower. To breach the chinle hike up the wash (along the chinle) to the west of the pullout until an easy scramble is reached.The route begins on the north side of the tower in a handcrack and winds left around to the south side and a big ledge. The crack gets progressively larger as it curves around the tower. There i...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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