The arena on its west side has a thick 4ft+ pillar 30ft+ reaching to the ground free standing because it hangs directly off of the schist cliff deep cave like overhang (this arena could offer some new very difficult rock climbs and extreme mixed climbing possibilities). I top roped the pillar (WI5). To the east there is another wall of rock that has a very difficult 20ft+ chandelier lower section and a 40ft+ upper section again a free standing pillar ice flow. There is some WI1-2 short ice flows also here. This arena is dependent on weather conditions of the entire winter and is usually in towards the end of the season in February.
Traveling west on 25A a few miles from Wentworth, there is the Lower Baker Pond visibly south of the road. The ice climbing arena is above this pond on the north side of 25A, almost past the pond. Parking is on the south side of 25A at plowed pull out. Walking to the climbs is less than a 1/8 of a mile.
Climb 20+ft of chandelier ice and move right. Climb hollow free standing very wide pillar after chimney behind it midway to place rock protection. Down climb chimney and ascend pillar. Move right via wide spread eagle legs to rock ledge then plant tools in snow crust to exit climb. WI5+ was as high as rating grade went. The exit is half dry tool with my right crampon on rock to pivot. This difficult extreme dynamic move was a make it or loose it finish. It was easy to bang your knuckles on the c...[more]Browse More Classics in NH
There are about 7 or so mostly bolted mixed lines there from m6+ - m9+. We always called that little cliff Slander Crag, and the pillar, mentioned above, the ICBM (after the missile in Warren). No one ever lead it though... The ice forms consistantly, and much earlier than February. I'm sure its fat right now. (Jan. '10)
Went up to do ICBM yesterday (01.17.10) but the previous days warm weather really toasted it. It was completely free hanging and not touching down enough for me to get on it. The top was huge so a couple of cold days should do it. Is it okay to call dibs on the FA lead if no one's done it?