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Routes in Middle Bell Tower
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Arm and Hammer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Butcher Knife T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cymbals Of The Sun T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Demon's Dance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0 R |
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Dire Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Easy Way Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Ellsworth-McQuarrie Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gendarme, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Gin and Tonic T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lowe Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Once in a Blood Moon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Regge Pole T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Tonic Immobility T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Winged Warrior T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 |
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| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m) |
| FA: | George and Jeff Lowe, 1967 |
| Page Views: | 2,528 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Nathan Fisher on May 18, 2006 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon.
Details
A well known and marked trailhead has been established starting from Wasatch Blvd. The trail adds some time to the approach, but is fenced off from passing through any private property. Stick to the trail.
Description
A flaring hand to offhand crack that is way flakey. This crack is rather fun, has lots of great moves but felt way insecure, and Oh yes...was not a 5.8. The book calls it a 5.8, I will go with 5.10a. Very steep and very flaring with nary a rest. I had a hard time picking out a crux as most of the climb was cruxy. This climb rated 2 stars due to the length (great), rock quality (not so great, but would be better if more people climbed it), tree in the middle of the route (I climbed through it, also not so good), and consistency of the grade (great). Get on this route. It could use a better anchor system.
Location
First crack west of the Great Cleft. This climbs throught the rightmost crack stepping left when this dies passing over, through, or around a pine tree, and continuing to the ledge with a slung chockstone.
Protection
A range of cams, as the flaring nature isn't kind to nuts. Medium to large nuts would work well in some situations. By the time I got to the top, my largest cam I had left was a yellow Metolius. I used everything from #4 Camalot down. Slings in case the ones at the belay station ar no good.
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