Lowe Route 

Awesome climb - best route I've done in the Wasatch.

Pitch 1 starts well up and right of the rap anchor on Pete's Staircase. If you are using a rope on Pete's Staircase, it is probably best to belay at the first rap anchor and then again at the base of the dihedral. The dihedral pitch is amazing.

Pitch 2 is weird and traverses a lot. It is very easy to belay too low, and if you do I'm not at all sure you can make it to the top of pitch 3 with a 60 meter rope. Don't be tempted to belay at the first good ledge with a steep crack above it. Climb the crack for another 30 feet to another good ledge.

Pitch 3 is unreal. Fairly runout, but the chickenheads keep it comfortable. Very long and the features just keep coming until the spectacular topout. This is one of the best pitches I have ever done, anywhere.

A total classic! The dihedral is beyond fun with totally solid hand and foot jams and the last pitch is a dream of patina with INSANE exposure! The final pitch really protects quite well, however, the climbing is so fun and easy that, before you know it you may be twenty feet past yr last piece. The only bummer is,of course, the approach. But hey, it is a character building experience.I did this as a day trip which I really regret. The extra gear for an overnighter would be well worth it in my opinion. Once you are up there, you will not want to leave.

I guess I always knew the Lowe route was the most popular in the cirque, but this last weekend the large majority of the people coming up were there ONLY for the Lowe route. I can't imagine doing that hike for 3 pitches of climbing. They are some pretty awesome pitches though. The last pitch really is as good as everyone says, patina that comes right out of a dream.

I agree with all of the above. The first pitch is a great crack with bomber hand jams. Really fun.
For some reason I remembered the second pitch as being easier, but the second time around it felt like a solid 5.7, especially the crack leading up to the belay for the 3rd pitch.
What can I say about the last pitch? Leading it is a sweet experience. I found it a little hard to protect and as a result, ran it out until there was a place to put pro. But the holds are so good that it wasn't too scary. Just don't look down too often!

Just wanted to add that it is possible to do the 3rd pitch from the lower belay ledge with a 60m rope. We did it this weekend while waiting for a party that was still at the normal belay ledge and had plenty of cord. If you stop here to wait for a group or simply by accident, you don't need to make this into a four pitch climb.

Great climb. Pitch 1 is really cool with a 2 pin anchor on top of the pillar that can be backed up with hand sized gear. Pitch 2 is a bit confusing, here are some landmarks to keep you on track: Obvious thin hands crack to a short traverse on ledges to the huge bong piton. Head up and you should see a bolt above you(you won't use it as it is not on route) where you begin to traverse back right. After traversing right you should spot the big grassy ledge above you. Do one more left then right and this will land you on this big ledge, with a good vertical crack for a belay. I recommend stopping here rather than continuing as this belay is much more comfortable and has more convenient gear then 30 feet higher on the 2nd ledge, though this makes pitch 3 longer and you can't see the climber for most of it, so take that into consideration. It is about 15 feet off the 2nd ledge to your first piece of pro but after that gear occurs pretty regularly through the patina.

There is a short traverse out right at the start of pitch 3. I would not have recognized this if my buddy hadn;t done the route before. You can only get gear way out right. So find your longest sling or wait til you get higher and try not to factor 2 onto your belay. Third pitch is amazing! A must do warm-up for any trip to the cirque