This is an excellent route up one of the biggest towers in Spring Canyon. The route follows an obvious, natural line and offers engaging climbing on mostly solid rock. There are some loose spots on the third pitch but they’re short lived and not too bad. The rest of the route more than makes up for it. It awaits a first free ascent.
Pitch One - Find the obvious right facing dihedral that faces the road and climb it to the top of Purge Pillar. The gear is thin at the start. Belay from two bolts. (5.10+)
Pitch Two – Step left and climb the 3.5” to 4.5” offwidth past a couple pods. The crack then tapers down to thin hands in a shallow right facing dihedral for a long way. Belay on a ledge with two bolts. (5.11, C1)
Pitch Three – Climb over a small roof and continue up corners passing some loose rock along the way. Belay from gear (.75 Camalot and big cams) on a good ledge below a wide crack in a corner. (5.8, C2)
Pitch Four – Layback up the offwidth and around a small roof to find fun and easy climbing all the way to the summit. (5.8)
2 sets of cams from black Alien to #3 Camalot
3 .75 Camalots
3 #1 Camalots
3 old #4 Camalots
1 4.5 Camalot
1 old #5 Camalot
1 set of nuts
Oct 20, 2009
Will this go free??
|By Marc Gay|
Apr 1, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c C0
This route went free on 3/26/10. We (Marc Gay, Ralph Ferrara, and Baker Bent)did this excellent route at 5.11b. 1st pitch -- 10d. 2nd pitch -- 11b. 3rd pitch -- 10d. 4th pitch -- 5.7. We belayed higher than the first ascent party on the third pitch. Kudos to the first ascent. A good route with well set up rappel anchors.