Type: Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: John Stannard
Page Views: 4,735 total · 26/month
Shared By: slim on Jun 9, 2009
Admins: Morgan Patterson, RJ B

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This nice line provides a good chance at breaking into the 11- grade at the Gunks. It is short, non-committing, well protected, and very forgiving for the grade. In particular, if you are a visitor from the west, and more familiar with steep crack climbing, this will most likely feel more comfortable than the typical Gunks roofs.

Climb easily up to a roof that is approximately 15 to 20 feet above the ground via a good crack and some face climbing and/or stemming. Jam a really nice hand-and-fist crack through the roof, up into a flare/squeeze sort of affair. Get situated and pull over another roof via finger jamming and face climbing. A fun little route.

Location Suggest change

This route is displayed at the Uberfall, right of Rhododendron and just right of Walter Mitty . It is a good-sized roof about 20 feet above the ground, with an obvious hand/fist crack through it. It faces the carriage road.

Scramble down via the Uberfall Descent.

Protection Suggest change

A single set of Camalots from .5 to #3 should suffice, with possibly a 2nd #3. A set of Aliens or other micro cams to finger/thin-hand size cams are useful for the anchor in a horizontal at the belay ledge.

Photos

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