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This nice line provides a good chance at breaking into the 11- grade at the Gunks. It is short, non-committing, well protected, and very forgiving for the grade. In particular, if you are a visitor from the west, and more familiar with steep crack climbing, this will most likely feel more comfortable than the typical Gunks roofs.
Climb easily up to a roof that is approximately 15 to 20 feet above the ground via a good crack and some face climbing and/or stemming. Jam a really nice hand-and-fist crack through the roof, up into a flare/squeeze sort of affair. Get situated and pull over another roof via finger jamming and face climbing. A fun little route.
This route is displayed at the Uberfall, right of Rhododendron
and just right of Walter Mitty
. It is a good-sized roof about 20 feet above the ground, with an obvious hand/fist crack through it. It faces the carriage road.
Scramble down via the Uberfall Descent
A single set of Camalots from .5 to #3 should suffice, with possibly a 2nd #3. A set of Aliens or other micro cams to finger/thin-hand size cams are useful for the anchor in a horizontal at the belay ledge.
BETA PHOTO: Low Exposure roof crack from below on a snowy day ...
Some serious repetitive jamming and scumming on th...
Jun 9, 2009
the swain book gives this 11-, having climbed a lot of routes of this style i would say it is probably 10a or 10b, but somewhat different style than most other gunks routes. it will be interesting to see what others think of the route. grades aside, it is fun and well worth jumping on when all of the other routes are qued up.
By Jay Harrison
Nov 6, 2014
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
You can add a sit-start under the waist-high roof (or do it as a boulder problem). Just be sure there are no copperheads lying in wait under there! Awkward jamming, stems, and pressure holds.