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Penitente - Entrance Area
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Unsorted Routes:

Lovesnake 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rick Shull and Chris Miller, October 1988
Page Views: 1,465
Submitted By: Jared Brown on Jul 20, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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Paul Pomeroy making the second ascent. 1988.

Description 

Just right of Bucket Slave, find a wall with graffiti that says "pink cows fly at night" This route ascends the dihedral with interesting sometimes reachy moves.

Protection 

3 bolts and anchors


Photos of Lovesnake Slideshow Add Photo
Brooke pulling onto the slab. Is this offroute? I still felt it was solid 5.10b with these moves.
Brooke pulling onto the slab. Is this offroute? I ...

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By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
May 16, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I think the guidebooks call this 10c/d. I'm no expert on the naunces of 5.10, but as a bone-throwing gesture to my 5.10 loving brethren (and sistren...sp?) I have to object, and say that I think this one is harder than 10b, especially if you are in any way vertically-challenged. It's a great trad simulator too!
By Michael Amato
Jun 3, 2005

Stepping right onto the slab after the second bolt as the new guidebook suggests keeps this climb mild. Heading straight up to the third bolt and on to the anchor (as is suggested by the bolts and anchors themselves), I suspect, is yet harder than 5.10d. Next time.
By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Rick Shull and myself did the FA of this in 1988 while on a roadtrip; we named it Lovesnake after a friend's band at the time. I'm sure the climb could be extended albeit at a harder grade - anyone interested have at it!
By William Mondragon
From: My car
Feb 15, 2012

Those anchors are in the wrong spot.
By Tim Waystrong
From: New Hampshire
Jan 26, 2013

The anchors are fine where they are.