Love's Labor Lost 5.10a/b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | Richard Wright and Karen Kuddes, 1989 |
| Submitted By: | Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001 |
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Ben cranking up Loves Labor Lost, the Goose.
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Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
The following crags are typically closed 1 February to 31 July: The Goose Goose Eggs East Ridge Mars Block Nebel Horn Tower of the Moon Jamcrack Spire The Pyramid Incognito Crag Devil's Thumb Shadow Fax Isolation Rock Sunset Wall Devil's Wing (W. Face) The Matron Lost & Found The Sibling Toddler Rock Sphinx Medusa Details. In addition, Mallory Cave, Harmon Cave, and Seal View Cave are permanently closed to human use to reduce the chance of introducing white-nose syndrome.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
Flatirons Climbing CouncilPreserving climbing access in the Flatirons
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Description Start up on the ramp to the left of Deserted Cities and follow the bolts to the same anchor as Deserted Cities. A few runout sections have cracks for the mentioned pro. Excellent face climbing to a great summit. Descent: A single bolt with a ring or traverse 20ft. to double rings. A single 50m rap to ledge then downclimb ledge.
Protection 8 QDs plus a #0.5 and #2.5 Friend to a single bolt anchor. Bring a #4 Friend if you don't feel comfortable with a single bolt.
Location This is located on the west side of the Goose. Approach via the Fern Canyon trail. There are some sections which are looser on the approach.
BETA PHOTO
| Dan Mottinger on the top of the goose.
| Dan Mottinger enjoying a beautiful day with one of...
| Fun stuff...
| Lovin' it.
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| Comments on Love's Labor Lost |
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By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Mar 8, 2002
| Mighty nice picture. Pretty technical. Significantly thinner than its neighbor, Deserted Cities.... What's up with single bolt anchors? |
By Richard M. Wright From: Lakewood, CO Mar 8, 2002
| The intent was to traverse out to the double bolt anchors on the right (South). If you look around you can get in some gear close enough to the bolt. These days I'd probably put in two. |
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Jan 27, 2003 rating: 5.10b
| Good climb overall. Note [the] warning about [supplementing] the bolts with gear. I saw the line and mistakenly presumed that it was all bolted, as the [Rossiter] book shows it pretty well evenly spaced. Somewhere about in the middle of the climb I was 25+ feet above gear and only 50' above a pretty good sized ledge. It is X-rated without the gear, you will be looking at a bone-smashing fall from 5.8+ (?) moves just before the next bolt. With pro- no big deal, it would be solid if placed well. |
By Scott Conner From: Lyons, CO Nov 30, 2003 rating: 5.10c
| Cool Route! Fun overhanging start. Definite crux at the second bolt but the whole climb is consistent at .8 or .9. I only took a #1 and #2 Camalot on this climb (in addition to the draws). I plugged the #1 in the first horizontal crack (between bolts 3 and 4, I think) but the #2 was too small for the next placement (a #3.5 Camalot maybe??) so it was pretty run-out to the next bolt. As Tony says, no gear would be X rated with a possible decker. |
By Luke Clarke From: Golden Oct 17, 2010 rating: 5.10b
| A new #4 Camalot (about the same as the old 3.5) goes in nicely in a horizontal and a shoulder length sling lined up the rope with the bolts. Quality pitch. |
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