Lovers Leap is on the south side of US Highway 285 a few miles west of CO Highway 470 and a mile or so east of Parmalee Gulch. Under the right conditions there are many possibilities for mixed, alpine-style climbs.
Getting There
The best approach from the Denver metro area is to drive south on US 285 exit at Parmalee Gulch/Indian Hills and head back down canyon to a large pull-off directly below the cliff. From the parking area, walk down the embankment towards the creek then look for a small rocky gully and head up on a well used trail. Allow 30 minutes for the approach.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lover's Leap:
Route Number 9 M5 R Mixed, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II
The route ascends a corner/gully system to the right of the main buttress and left of the "Licorice Reunion Buttress". Approach via the scree gully and belay at a pine tree below a obvious corner with a small roof.Description based on conditions found.P1. Climb up a right-leaning slab with an overlap on the left to a shallow left trending gully. Follow this gully to a belay at 2 bolts w/ slings on the right hand wall. M4+ R.P2. From the belay, climb out left to a V-shaped corner place a #3...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Dec 7, 2009
I'm curious. I've driven by here off and on over the years, but it's been fairly infrequent that I've seen any significant ice here. For the locals, does ice form here every year? Early season? Certain alignment of the stars?
It's a rarity and scary as hell because it's so blocky & usually unconsolidated, if anything. Hats off to Brian for giving it a go; it looks like the line they worked is the typical summer descent area.
You can get lucky (or shut down) on the Standard line with the final off-fingers hand-crack having some ice; but it's a rarity as well.
By Brian Tessier From: Lakehood, Colorado Dec 7, 2009
Timing and patience is everything! It was climbable for a few days last month and then it was gone. Being lucky helps, too! ED: Buff you're correct. We used the descent anchors on the way up.
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