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Lovers Leap, Linking climbs.



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By andrewjessee1
Jul 3, 2010
90 foot wall

Anyone know what the options are for getting from Tombstone Ledge to the Main ledge. I'm trying to see if its possible to start from Tombstone Ledge and link up with Corrugation Corner, but still stay within the 5.7 rating. The first pitch of Travelers Buttress seems to be promising except for the last little bit. Is it feasible to traverse left at the roof and catch the last 40 ft of crack on Tombstone Terror's first pitch?


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By covelocos
Jul 3, 2010
Digs deep!

Yer gonna DIE...


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By foodgeek
Jul 3, 2010

Why add one pitch to corrugation corner when you can climb all three pitches of surrealistic pillar and walk to the main ledge from the top?


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By andrewjessee1
Jul 3, 2010
90 foot wall

surrealistic pillar huh? Sounds cool. Thanks for the info.


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By Salamanizer
Administrator
From Vacaville Ca.
Jul 7, 2010

Yes, it is possible to traverse left from the little ledge on P. 1 of Travelers to avoid the flaring hand section. Probably 5.6/7 and rather exposed.

You can also climb two pitches of For Real Crack, the Groove or The Farce if Surrealistic Pillar is crowded... which is likely.
At the top of the Lower Buttress, scramble up hill weaving between large talus blocks. Head toward a short wall above skirting it to the right. You will run into a steep trail which will follow along the wall on it's right side. As you ascend, look to the left for a steep narrow ramp leading back and up the wall. It's more of a scramble than a trail up the ramp. If it's climbable, you're on the right path. [Do not be tempted by the trails leading (right) away from the wall. They lead to Dear John Buttress.] Follow the trail back right (and up) which will lead to the main ledge of Hospital Corner and Corrugation.

If you have the Supertopo for the Leap, dump it and buy the Falcon Guide.


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By andrewjessee1
Jul 8, 2010
90 foot wall

Thanks for the continued info. Made Surrealistic Corner and the trail to the main wall. Corrugation was a mess, waited for a hour with no change.

I have the Falcon Guide. The West Wall and the right side of the Lower Wall topos are junk. So, the Supertopo is worse?


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By bob branscomb
From Lander, WY
Jul 8, 2010

Surrealistic, or The Groove and then up to Craven Image with the Dead Tree Direct finish is a good one too, if Corrugation is crazy.


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By andrewjessee1
Jul 8, 2010
90 foot wall

Did the Grove, nice combo of layback crack stemming and mantels. Could not find Craven Image or Ladybug for that matter. The topo was hard to read for the West wall, anything right of Anesthesia didn't look like the topo. Maybe we were to far right.


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By mucci
From sf ca
Jul 8, 2010

There are no good topo's of anything to the right of April Fools.

Lady bug and the 3rd pitch of april fools are very close. Craven image stays well right of ladybug, breaking out of the huge flake/gash on the second pitch.

There is a 3rd pitch variation on april fools, which can be mistaken for the 3rd on lady bug.

It looks like the groove pitch on lower butress, but up an left.

There is no pro for 80 feet of 5.7b dike hiking. Do not go this way

Craven image is one of the best moderates at the leap. Dead tree direct is one of the best finishes as well.


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