Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Central Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bookmark T 
Eagle Buttress, Left T 
Eagle Buttress, Right Side T 
Hourglass, The T 
Lover's Chimney T 
Roofer Madness T 

Lover's Chimney 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bruce Cooke, 1949
Page Views: 1,825
Submitted By: snowhazed on Aug 8, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Duke enters the cave

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Really fun, easy, protected chimney climbing inside a cave with the occasional window to look out of. Awesome when it's hot.

P1- 5.6 thrutchy OW with good gear to cave

P2- Chimney to the top- exit left to ledge

P3- 5.fun to the top

Location 

Center Wall left of Bookmark. The cave is pretty obvious- there is a bolted arete climb just left of the start

Protection 

All natural, standard rack to 3"


Photos of Lover's Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up the 3rd pitch to the top.
Starting up the 3rd pitch to the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh looking up into the cave. I think I read abou...
Josh looking up into the cave. I think I read abou...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chimney Garden!
Chimney Garden!
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up into the chimney.
Looking up into the chimney.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking at route from base
BETA PHOTO: Looking at route from base

Comments on Lover's Chimney Add Comment
Show which comments
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Jul 19, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

A great romp for the warmer days since you'll only be in the sun for the last pitch. A fun climb, but kind of an adventure route.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!