The crux is a powerful sequence out and over the lower roof. The name is keeping in theme with the Moody Blues and comes from Vaino's visit back to Boulder Canyon and seeing some old friends.
Start at the left side of low overhang on the trail to upper Animal World and just left of Melancholy Man.
Five bolts and couple of red, purple and green Camalots.
|By Aeon Aki|
Apr 12, 2008
After you pull the roof, does this route move out left to link with the line of bolts, or does it continue straight up through the right facing flakes?
|By Greg Hand|
From: Golden, CO
Apr 12, 2008
This route (as originally done) follows the wide crack straight up.
The bolts left are Nice To Be Here (done as an easier start) which joins Lovely To See You higher up. But it may make more sense (less gear/harder climbing) to move left and follow the bolts. If you can climb 5.12c, you probably don't need the purple Camalot at the top before the anchors.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 10, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
There are 3 ways to make a hard route:
1) Technical moves
2) Physical difficulty
3) Bad holds
This route had a little of each all in the initial section. After tonight, it's got more of the former and less of the latter.
It took me 3 tries to get up this thing.
To note: The undecling below the roof is now half gone. The crimp/sidepull below and left of the 2nd bolt is now 1/2 gone. (The one Vaino's foot is on in the picture.)