Loveland consists of myriad boulders and crags on the hillsides above washes 1 - 2 miles north of Split Rock. Most of the routes in this area were established by seminal climbers in the 1980's and ascend slabs, faces, and cracks of varying widths on fair to excellent quality rock. Vector (5.11c), one of the best trad climbs in the Park, is located in Loveland.
The best way to access Loveland is to park at Split Rock and follow the trail that heads north. Looking north, the Tiger Rocks and Bond Boulders are easily seen near the trailhead. As soon as the trail veers in a northwest direction toward the Morongo Man Cliffs, continue north in a wash and over rolling terrain for a mile to the Tiger Rocks and Bond Boulders. The other crags are found on the slopes on either side of the Desert Queen Wash which is located about 1/2 mile north of the Bond Boulders.
47 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Loveland:
Featured Route For Loveland
Throbbing Gristle 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Beak Boulder
This rig is a true classic and an odd one for Josh. There are no real face holds, knobs, or crumbly edges to help you. It is overhanging, somewhat flared and leaning.The rock is very good at the bottom, to the point of being slick inside the crack. Higher up the rock starts to deteriorate, but alas, I never got there... denied!This route might be the best OW I have seen or tried in Josh.more info here: WideFetish.com...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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