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Loveland consists of myriad boulders and crags on the hillsides above washes 1 - 2 miles north of Split Rock. Most of the routes in this area were established by seminal climbers in the 1980's and ascend slabs, faces, and cracks of varying widths on fair to excellent quality rock. Vector (5.11c), one of the best trad climbs in the Park, is located in Loveland.
The best way to access Loveland is to park at Split Rock and follow the trail that heads north. Looking north, the Tiger Rocks and Bond Boulders are easily seen near the trailhead. As soon as the trail veers in a northwest direction toward the Morongo Man Cliffs, continue north in a wash and over rolling terrain for a mile to the Tiger Rocks and Bond Boulders. The other crags are found on the slopes on either side of the Desert Queen Wash which is located about 1/2 mile north of the Bond Boulders.
47 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Loveland:
Featured Route For Loveland
Quasar 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a R CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Tiger Rocks
Begin near the center of Tiger Rocks in a left-slanting and overhanging corner, just left of a wide crack/chimney One Armed Giant. Undercling/layback out the overhanging corner until it turns the lip and the angle and difficulty eases. This rarely done route is quite difficult to protect on the lead as the gear is thin and very strenuous to place. Reportedly, the FA team pre-placed the gear prior to leading it. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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