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Loveland
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Alternate Approach crags 
Beak Boulder 
Beluga Boulders 
Bond Boulders, The 
Crocodile Rock 
Junction Hillside 
Loveland North 
Tiger Rocks 
Vector Rock 
Workout Rock 

Loveland 


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Administrators: C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Mar 30, 2003

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mmmm...80's style

Description 

Loveland consists of myriad boulders and crags on the hillsides above washes 1 - 2 miles north of Split Rock. Most of the routes in this area were established by seminal climbers in the 1980's and ascend slabs, faces, and cracks of varying widths on fair to excellent quality rock. Vector (5.11c), one of the best trad climbs in the Park, is located in Loveland.

Even though this area is relatively close to Split Rock, the approach to many of the crags involves boulder hopping and/or navigating through desert scrub and cacti on steep terrain. However, many fine routes may be found on crags that require circuitous or cumbersome approaches.


Getting There 

The best way to access Loveland is to park at Split Rock and follow the trail that heads north. Looking north, the Tiger Rocks and Bond Boulders are easily seen near the trailhead. As soon as the trail veers in a northwest direction toward the Morongo Man Cliffs, continue north in a wash and over rolling terrain for a mile to the Tiger Rocks and Bond Boulders. The other crags are found on the slopes on either side of the Desert Queen Wash which is located about 1/2 mile north of the Bond Boulders.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Loveland:
Totally Tubular   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Beak Boulder
I Get By With A Little Help From My Friends   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Crocodile Rock
Modern Warfare   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 45 feet   Beak Boulder
Eva Las Vegas   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   The Bond Boulders
Kamikaze Crack   5.10c     Trad, 50 feet   Beak Boulder
Fly Away   5.10d     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Tiger Rocks
Live and Let Die   5.10d     Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet   The Bond Boulders
One Armed Giant   5.10d PG13     Trad, 55 feet   Tiger Rocks
Vector   5.11c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Vector Rock
Quasar   5.12a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Tiger Rocks
Throbbing Gristle   5.12a/b     TR, 50 feet   Beak Boulder
Browse More Classics in Loveland

Featured Route For Loveland
mmmm...80's style

Vector 5.11c  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Vector Rock
Begin at the base of an obvious right-arching crack that narrows to a seam just below the top. Initially the climbing is easy in the hand sized crack but quickly becomes more demanding as the crack narrows to finger width. The sustained crux section is protected by #00 - #1 TCU's or small stoppers / brass. Technical footwork on thin edges and stamina is necessary to place gear. A committing mantle move (5.10-) out of the seam to the top adds excitement to this J-Tree classic! The des...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Loveland Slideshow Add Photo
Loveland, with the Tiger and Bond boulders on the left.

BETA PHOTO: Loveland, with the Tiger and Bond boulders on the ...

Upper Loveland. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Upper Loveland.
Photo by Blitzo.


Beak Boulders. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Beak Boulders.
Photo by Blitzo.