Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
East Temple
Select Route:
10th Division, The 
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion 
Fang Spire 
Freezer Burn IV 5.10 C2 (a.k.a. Free or Burn 5.11+) 
Lovelace 
Rexburg Rock Climbers Memorial Crack 

Lovelace 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b C2-

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 9 pitches, 900', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b C2- [details]
FA: Dave Jones & Gary Gray in 1983 FFA: Topher Donahue & Kennan Harvey in 1995
Page Views: 1,872
Submitted By: bsmoot on Mar 12, 2008
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This grade IV or V route features great rock in a spectacular setting. Climbs an ever widening crack to the top. The view looking down on the fang is fantastic. The free version is 5.12

P1 - Ascend a short approach pitch to a left facing corner.(5.6)
P2 - Ascend corner 5.10 to a narrow ledge.
P3 - Move belay right and up along a "thank God" type ledge.
P4 - Ascend thin splitters for 160' to a ledge (C2 or 5.12).
P5 - Jam a perfect hand crack (5.9) to a stance below a shallow chimney.
P6 - Climb the chimney for 40'. Traverse left to an improbable flake. Ascend this to a cool ledge (5.9) Amazing pitch.
P7 - Climb the 5.10 offwidth above to a belay below a deep chimney.
P8 - The slick bombay chimney above (5.9) ends at a hanging belay inside the chimney...Wow!
P9 - Climb the heads up squeeze chimney & offwidth to the top (5.9+)

Rap route...50m ropes will work.


Location 

This classic, striking crack system is located just left of, and behind the fang spire.


Protection 

3 sets TCU's, 3-4 sets cams up to a #5 camalot. Many small to medium nuts. Bring some big cams too.



Comments on Lovelace Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -