BETA PHOTO: 1. Wading Game 2. Happy Entrails 3. Death Grip 4. ...
Short, steep wall in a bend in the river about 5 minutes' walk in past the Gateway area
(on the trail toward The Sponge
). Find it by NOT crossing the first, long wooden-plank bridge across the river, but walking straight for about 50 feet instead, and looking up on your left. The river runs up against the base of the routes as it turns hard right, the climbs take you right over the water. Bolted for stick-clipping first bolt, which you definitely want to do. A fall before clipping would drop you right into shallow, rocky water, and could result in serious injury. I'd also recommend bringing a tarp, 2-3 clamps, and an extra stick clip (or another long, straight pole to span the river), as you'll have to rig a method of keeping your rope out of the water when you pull it between burns. "Is it worth all that trouble?," you may ask. In my opinion, the answer is definitely YES, and then some. If you climb at the mid-5.12 level and like short, bouldery routes, these are some of the best in NM. Also, the natural surroundings are phenomenally beautiful.
Added bonus: The middle two 5.12 routes, Happy Entrails
and Death Grip
, can be climbed in fairly heavy rain as they are steep enough to stay dry. However, the river becomes a bit more of an issue, as it tends to swell when it rains hard.
For many years there were only 2 bolted routes: Happy Entrails
and Death Grip
. Consensus is that the latter is harder by about a letter grade. However, more recent development has added three 5.9s, a couple 5.10s and two 5.12 routes.
See above. 5 min approach along the main riverside trail (the one you take if you're heading to the sponge).
Weather station 2.0 miles from here
10 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Love Shack Area
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Love Shack Area:
Death Grip 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Featured Route For Love Shack Area
In Your Face Space Coyote 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b NM
: Jemez Valley Area
: ... : Love Shack Area
This route is a nice little addition to the crag to create a trifecta of pretty fun 5.12s. The upper section looks beautiful from the trail, but the bottom appears a bit thuggish at first glance. However, a little trickery (or burl it out), to a good rest, and you'll be giggling all the way to the chains. Stay strong and go direct at the top through the amazing huecos.The route name comes from a classic Simpsons episode wherein Homer eats chile peppers from Guatemala, starts tripping balls, and ...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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