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The Sorcerer's Apprentice
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Broomsticks T 
Love Potion No. 9 T,S 

Love Potion No. 9 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Paul & Paul
Page Views: 2,545
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006

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Rob Beno following the runout third pitch arete (5...

Description 

This is an enjoyable and easy climb that doesn't see too much traffic. Finding the start is a little tricky -- see the area description for details.

P1: Climb up intermittent cracks and fins of rock to a face with a few widely spaced bolts. Belay at a stance with a bolted anchor. A long pitch, 5.9+.

P2: Climb up ever steepening face past four or five bolts, then turn the corner around the right. Save a sling for a crucial knob tie-off!!! Continue traversing right and then up to a bolted belay. Rap straight down the Piranha/Parasite wall with two ropes.

Protection 

A light rack plus quickdraws and slings.


Photos of Love Potion No. 9 Slideshow Add Photo
LP#9 End of the second pitch is a bit airy.
BETA PHOTO: LP#9 End of the second pitch is a bit airy.
Ryan Crochiere high on the arete on the super runout 3rd pitch of Love Potion #9.  Slung horn, slung knob and a marginal nut is all you get for the whole pitch.
Ryan Crochiere high on the arete on the super runo...
Josh Janes on the second pitch of Love Potion #9, Needles.
Josh Janes on the second pitch of Love Potion #9, ...
Diana at the first belay - LP#9
Diana at the first belay - LP#9
Looking straight up from the P1 anchors
Looking straight up from the P1 anchors
The confusing and awkward start of LP#9
BETA PHOTO: The confusing and awkward start of LP#9
Richard Shore following P2 of LP#9, with Rob Beno at the hanging belay.  Photo by Chad Furman, taken from Voodoo Dome.
Richard Shore following P2 of LP#9, with Rob Beno ...

Comments on Love Potion No. 9 Add Comment
Show which comments
By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
Jul 24, 2007

Pitch 1 is runnout. Pitch 2 is the crux and is well protected.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Aug 21, 2008

The Needles guide shows 5 bolts on the first pitch, we only found 4.

We approached from the West side, and it was a huge PITA. Suggest try approaching from the Wizard/Sorcerer notch?

Also, this climb has a third pitch! It goes to the summit of the Sorcerer's apprentice, where you can 4th class off to the west. The third pitch is 5.7 R. It is drawn in the old guide, you can see the dotted line. 140 feet of climbing on bomber rock, protected by a slung horn 10 feet up, a slung knob 80 feet up, and a crappy nut 100 feet up.

Fantastic face climbing. P1 and P2 are reasonable, P3 is scary.
By ttriche
From: Altadena, CA
Jun 28, 2010

Don't do south-facing climbs when it's super sunny unless you want to roast. I've done the whole Sierra Sahara thing and it gets old fast.

If you want to avoid the hike back up the gully, the rap from the top of LP#9 to the toe of the Wizard, followed by something on the Wizard (like say the Demon), a double-rope rap off the Wizard summit, 3rd or 4th classing the southeast shoulder of the Sorcerer, another full-length rap from the chains, and something fast like Spooky on the Charlatan, will result in a fairly full day. But you can skip hiking and do a lot more climbing.

Plus you tag the summits of 4 formations in a row, not too bad. For me, the crux of this is getting on the Sorcerer's Apprentice early enough, and hauling enough big gear to aid^H^H^Hlead the Demon... Mike Reardon used to solo the circuit a lot, and the link-up was one of his frequent suggestions. It ends up being about a solid 10-pitch day.
By Richard Shore
Oct 17, 2011

There are 5 bolts on P1; the party above must have missed one. On P3 I found a handful of protection points, most of them being marginal. The big black knob towards the end of the arÍte is the most confidence inspiring pro on the entire pitch. Also, one of the 1/2" petzl long-life bolts at the anchor on P3 is hanging ~1" out of the rock and is tweaked. This needs replacement. I slung a block on the summit for an anchor instead.

Highly recommended as an approach to Yellow Brick Road on the Wizard. 4th class up the gully to the west to reach the base of YBR.
By clustiere
Aug 5, 2012

Or continue up to the top of the formation via a run out 5.7 pitch and some scrambling.
By WMcD
Aug 30, 2013

Can anyone comment on the bolts on this route? I bailed off what I thought was Love Potion #9 last week due to substantial runouts between ancient 1/4"ers. I couldn't decide whether I was more terrified to keep climbing or weight one of those little bastards and lower. After seeing a sketchy 1/4" anchor well above the last bolt, I bailed. Thankfully, the hangar didn't crumble into rust under bodyweight! Looking at the Clint Cummins topo, I now think maybe I got off onto The Seven Year Itch. Thoughts?