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Jimmy Cliff
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Alcove Crack T 
Beginning of All Things, The S 
Clip a Dee Doo Dah S 
Cracker Cracks T 
Curl Up and Fly S 
Drilling for Dollars S 
Easter Squall S 
Hammond Organ S 
Hypocrisy S 
Jimmy Crack Corn T 
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Love Nest T,TR 
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Scare Crow T 
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Standard Route T 
Stool Pigeon T 
Teacherís Pet S 
Things as They Are S 
Things As They Are Now S 
Things I Never Learned S 
Things You Should Have Learned in Kindergarten S 
To Love, Honor and Belay S 
When Pigs Fly T 

Love Nest 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
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Page Views: 942
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jul 25, 2009

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this shows where the Love Nest is... the corner ab...

Description 

A variation/link-up that I like better than the two routes it encounters.

Clip the first couple bolts on Drilling for Dollars 5.8 and rather than breaking left on that route climb straight up the corner (trad gear) to the anchor of To Love Honor and Belay. Some interesting balance moves on the upper section.

This line can be top roped after climbing To Love Honor and Belay.

Location 

Start on Drilling for Dollars. Finish on the To Love Honor and Belay anchor.

Protection 

normal rack to a two bolt anchor.


Photos of Love Nest Slideshow Add Photo
Dave in the crux (which is no gimme at the grade)
Dave in the crux (which is no gimme at the grade)

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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 25, 2009

aka "Drilling for Love"
By twellman
May 19, 2010

Where is the 5.9 crux of this route? I felt like the 5.9 part of to love honor and belay was in the first 20 feet above the ledge, but you would skip this part if you start on drilling... I'll have to check it out next time I'm there.