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Jimmy Cliff
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Teacherís Pet S 
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To Love, Honor and Belay S 
When Pigs Fly T 

Love Nest 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
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Page Views: 1,027
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jul 25, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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this shows where the Love Nest is... the corner ab...

Description 

A variation/link-up that I like better than the two routes it encounters.

Clip the first couple bolts on Drilling for Dollars 5.8 and rather than breaking left on that route climb straight up the corner (trad gear) to the anchor of To Love Honor and Belay. Some interesting balance moves on the upper section.

This line can be top roped after climbing To Love Honor and Belay.

Location 

Start on Drilling for Dollars. Finish on the To Love Honor and Belay anchor.

Protection 

normal rack to a two bolt anchor.


Photos of Love Nest Slideshow Add Photo
Dave in the crux (which is no gimme at the grade)
Dave in the crux (which is no gimme at the grade)

Comments on Love Nest Add Comment
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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 25, 2009

aka "Drilling for Love"
By twellman
May 19, 2010

Where is the 5.9 crux of this route? I felt like the 5.9 part of to love honor and belay was in the first 20 feet above the ledge, but you would skip this part if you start on drilling... I'll have to check it out next time I'm there.
By Eli Buzzell
From: Rumney
May 24, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

The 5.9 crux is probably the fact that the placements aren't that good, and you'll hit ledges if you fall. I couldn't tell you whether or not it's physically 5.9, but leading it definitely felt in the 5.9 zone. (if any of that makes any sense)
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