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Love Nest Area

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Love Nest, The 
Thin Vice Area 

Love Nest Area  


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Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: C Miller on Dec 17, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: The Love Nest area as seen from the road. The seld...

Description 

This area is a group of rocks across the road from Cap Rock which offers approximately 15 routes from 5.8 crack to 5.12a face scattered over several different formations. The approach varies from 5-10 minutes typically, with the Love Nest having the shortest approach and being the most popular.

Several excellent sport routes are found on the Love Nest proper in a sunny, south-facing locale with a minmimal approach. The climbs Shakin' Like Milk (5.11b), We Don't Need No Stinking Badges (5.11c) and Boy's Don't Cry (5.12a) are all recommended and must-do sport climbs for the grade.

Further afield are a number of routes up blocks and boulders, with Test Fire (5.10a) a nice finger crack and Thin Vice (5.11c) a short but technical seam being standouts.

Getting There 

The best approach is to park in a pullout due west of the formation and follow a worn path five minutes east to The Love Nest. The parking area is almost directly across from where the old Lost Horse road comes out, and a stop sign will be noticeable to the observant.

The Thin Vice area is reached by walking east, past the Love Nest and then turning north to skirt the boulders on the right. See that page for additional approach information.

The Test Fire Boulder is a large, round boulder on the north end of the boulder pile and is easily reached by walking counterclockwise around the entire boulder clump.

Climbing Season



Weather station 11.0 miles from here

8 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',4],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Love Nest Area
A good look at the thin start. Photo by Tony Sarti...

Shakin' Like Milk 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Love Nest
This route is the right-most line on the Love Nest formation and starts in a shallow corner and then finishes on the face above. A steep start on large but somewhat loose holds leads into a shallow, right-facing patina corner with the crux moves exiting onto the tan face above. The finish appears desperate but reach high enough and a hidden hold will magically appear. The easiest of the Love Nest routes, this is a good warm-up for the adjacent lines if need be. Complex moves on good rock make ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Local Information for Love Nest Area
Photos of Love Nest Area Slideshow Add Photo
Saddle Rocks from Love Nest Area. Photo by Blitzo.
Saddle Rocks from Love Nest Area. Photo by Blitzo.

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By Vernon Stiefel
Dec 18, 2003
The routes that CM describes are indeed excellent sport climbs! Many thanks to Paul Borne for his hard work at The Love Nest AND other areas in the Park!