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This area is a group of rocks across the road from Cap Rock which offers approximately 15 routes from 5.8 crack to 5.12a face scattered over several different formations. The approach varies from 5-10 minutes typically, with the Love Nest having the shortest approach and being the most popular.
The best approach is to park in a pullout due west of the formation and follow a worn path five minutes east to The Love Nest. The parking area is almost directly across from where the old Lost Horse road comes out, and a stop sign will be noticeable to the observant.
7 Total Routes
Featured Route For Love Nest Area
Shakin' Like Milk 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Love Nest
This route is the right-most line on the Love Nest formation and starts in a shallow corner and then finishes on the face above. A steep start on large but somewhat loose holds leads into a shallow, right-facing patina corner with the crux moves exiting onto the tan face above. The finish appears desperate but reach high enough and a hidden hold will magically appear. The easiest of the Love Nest routes, this is a good warm-up for the adjacent lines if need be. Complex moves on good rock make ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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