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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beds are Burning S 
Crank Whore S 
Cranked on Fashion S,TR 
Fashion Victim S 
Genesis S,TR 
Love Muffin S 
No Quarter S,TR 
Pancake Day S 
PMS S,TR 
Quarter Ounce S 
Shrove Tuesday Finish, The S 
Space Sluts S 
Spread Eagle S 
Squeeze (closed project) S 
Tiger's Reach S 

Love Muffin 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1
Submitted By: Nick Sullens on Oct 13, 2011

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Description 

Good edges lead up to a blank headwall. Clipping the fourth bolt is a bit strenuous. The crux is the blankness guarding the chains, from a poor crimp and a pretty good left hand either dyno or levitate. Very fun route, the anchor is in need of a retrobolt, or maybe just new hangers/ chains.

Location 

The second route from the far right of the cliff, to the right of PMS and the left of Beds, or two bolts lines to the right of Fashion Victim.

Protection 

4 bolts to a terrible 2 bolt anchor, Leeper hangers connected together with some homemade looking cable.


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By Steve Weyand
From: Redding
May 29, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

On May 9, 2014 I replaced the rusty 1st bolt and hanger with a new Powers 3.5" bolt and Fixe hanger. Bolts 2, 3, & 4 are still in good shape and the hangers and nuts have been straitened and tightened. I also replaced the 2 bolt anchor and manky cable with 2 new bolts and hangers and added quick links and leaver 'biners for the lower off.
By CrimperE6
From: cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
Nov 2, 2014

Bloc 7B, give yourself 7b+ for the onsight placing draws!

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