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Redgarden - Tower Two
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10,000 Leagues 
After The Gold Rush 
Avoid the Rush 
Bolting for Glory 
Briny Deep, The 
Cave Pitch 
Contest, The 
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Fools Learn 
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Inset, The 
Jules Verne 
Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation 
King Tut 
Le Void 
Lene's Dream 
Love Minus Zero 
Naked Edge, The 
No Lo Contendere 
Old Bad Aid Crack 
One Way Out 
Plastic Jesus 
Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent 
Rosy Crucifixion 
Scratch and Sniff 
Seams Beyond 
Seize of Holds 
Serpent, The 
Sickness Unto Death 
Slots of Fun 
Slow Train Coming 
Superlink, The 
T2 Direct Finish 
Touch 'N' Go 
Weeping Willow 
Wild Kingdom 
Wingless Victory 

Love Minus Zero 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a R

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Roger Briggs & Bill Briggs - 1973
Page Views: 802
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jul 1, 2004
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Climbers on Love Minus Zero, Eldorado Canyon, phot...
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  • Description 

    Love Minus Zero: Two stars if done by itself, subtract a star for the deteriorating rock above the roof, add a star if done as a part of "Roving for Love."

    P1: Begin a little ways up and left on the Upper Ramp from the black slot/crack that marks the start of upper T2. Pull up and right at an obvious weakness to gain a crack and pro. Probably 20' of unprotected 5.8 here. Climb upwards for another 20' to gain the obvious finger crack and follow this up and leftwards to a ledge. Belay. The pitch is approximately 100' long.

    P2: Traditionally you would traverse off the left margin of the ledge to gain a very shallow left-facing corner with poor gear. A much nicer option is to continue up and left off the ledge in the obvious black hand crack. This leads directly up to the roof. Step left to a flake to establish yourself below the roof and get a no-hands rest. Currently there is a fixed hex and tat under the roof. This can be backed up with a solid red Alien or 0.5 Camalot. Pull the roof. This is very strenuous and requires bringing your feet way up and liebacking in a near-horizontal position before rocking up to a good crack. Felt like one of the most powerful 11c's I've done in Eldo. Once past the roof you traverse left about 10' and then head up chossy rock to a belay niche. Continue up on easy rock or traverse slightly right to a slung horn and make two raps back to the ramp (recommended - bring webbing).

    Roving for Love was a great linkup: Roll Over Rover to Rover to Love Minus Zero. Thanks to Steve Levin.



    Photos of Love Minus Zero Slideshow Add Photo
    The crux roof on Love Minus Zero - Not as good as After the Gold Rush but still a nice adventure.
    The crux roof on Love Minus Zero - Not as good as ...
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