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Sex Canyon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blood of the Dead (sangre de los muertos) S 
Bolus S 
Dark Energy S 
Friends and Lovers S 
High Anxiety S 
Hyper Salvation S 
Learning to Crawl S 
Learning to Fly S 
Let Them Eat Flake S 
Love is a Fist S 
Mistaken Identity S 
No Recess S 
Pulmonary Choss S 
Super Cruiser S 
Telegraph Road S 

Love is a Fist 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, Chipped, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
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Page Views: 248
Submitted By: LeeAB on Dec 2, 2008

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Description 

Undercling up to a drilled 2 finger threader, then a broken looking undercling and edge. A couple more holds that seem as though they would be better leads up to a couple of honking jugs. A hard to find hold leads up to the horizontal below the final roof. Make moves up and right to an anchor.

This route is very steep, so steep you'd be better off cleaning it on TR.

Location 

4th route from the right of the center grouping of routes. First route right of Bolus or 3rd route right of Super Cruiser (route with fixed cable draws).

Protection 

Bolts and a chain anchor.


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By Graham L
5 days ago

I love overhung routes that have a boulder problem in the middle that lead you into jugs. That's this route in a nutshell. Great "3 move wonder" 5.12c. There's a bunch of stuff you can grab around the anchors, but there's a large orange block to the left of the chains that felt kind of unstable the other day.

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