Your todo list:
Your rating: -none-
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE: [0 people like this page.]
Love Hurts... great moves
|Raptor Closure 2016: Three Penguins 2016 Raptor Closure: All climbing routes on the Three Penguins are temporarily closed due to presence of raptors displaying breeding behavior. Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/roc... -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>
This route is on the obvious slab towards the north side of the Sunshine Wall. It starts about twenty-five feet right of an obvious crack which runs through a small roof.
A large ledge is reached about 20 feet up. Either go left and scramble up to the ledge, or do a direct start with a bolt (probably 5.8). From the ledge, follow the right most of three lines that go to the anchors in the center of the face. One tough move around the 3rd fixed piece, and the rest is about 5.7. Rappel with either two ropes or one 60m rope barely reaches the upper ledge.
8 fixed pieces (2 are drilled angles). Possible hand size cam above first bolt.
By Michael Gilbert
From: Salt Lake City
Feb 19, 2014
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Fun, well protected, great route to get used to the sandstone slab climbing technique. A number 2 Camalot is nice to have for protecting the climb between bolts one and two, the only part of the climb that is runout at all.