Love Gas 5.10a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Todd Gordon, Tucker Tech, Tom Burke |
| Submitted By: | Blitzo on Oct 17, 2007 |
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Come and get your Love Gas.
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Description This is to the right of "A Bull With Gas". Climb the low angle ramp mentioned in the "Bull with Gas" description to the right and up steep plates (5.9), passing a bolt, several fixed pins and seven bolts to a two bolt anchor.
Face Climbing (5.10a), passes two bolts to a two bolt anchor.
Another short, easy pitch can be done to the summit.
Two bolt rappel anchors on top. A 60 meter rope is mandatory and a 70 meter is better.
Protection Lots of draws.
BETA PHOTO: "Love Gas"
Photo by Blitzo.
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BETA PHOTO: "Love Gas".
Photo by Blitzo.
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Tom Burke.
The late Tom Burke did many first ascen...
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Come and get your Love Gas
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Love Gas, 5.10a
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Love gas
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By Kris Solem
From: Monrovia, CA
Feb 19, 2008
| With any amount of traffic, lots of pieces are going to get pulled off of this one. Might want to give your belayer a hard hat.
The beautiful setting and fantastic views make this climb. Certainly not the rock quality, which is loose and chossy. |
By Pete eye
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 26, 2009
| climbing quality is classic, but be gentle on the loose plates sections so the climb remains for years to come. Pull down not out. |
By Nick Y.
Apr 1, 2012
| Climbed to the first anchor on 3/30 - can 'third' the comments on loose holds. There are seven bolts and two pins on that pitch. First two bolts and two pins are probably within no more than 15 foot of each other, so you can pretty safely skip the pins.
60m rap off the first anchor puts you about 3-5 feet above the bottom of the ramp. No problem to come off and smear your way down beyond that.
Two fairly well camo'ed bolts above the first belay station. Goes over a lip after though, so no more topo beyond that. |
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